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Road trip: sands, stalagmites and snow in New Mexico

New Mexico is the stuff that road trip dreams are made of. Long stretches of lunar-like landscapes with distant peaks that always feel slightly out of reach, the kind of warm heat that you want to sink into and stay in a while. It’s a place for the adventurous, yes, but also the laid-back. Perfect for a solitary long weekend or a weeklong trip with a friend or partner. 

White Sands National Park

White Sands National Park

White Sands National Park visitor center

White Sands National Park visitor center

I started my trip in Albuquerque, which in pre-covid, fairytale times was serviced by daily nonstop flights on Jetblue from JFK. While the state has started opening up, not all parks are yet open, so be sure to check status before heading out. I drove south from Albuquerque, towards White Sands National Park, passing by the interestingly named town of Truth or Consequences, which is also home to a number of natural hot springs, followed by a classic breakfast of eggs, bacon, and French toast at Sugies Diner in Las Cruces. I arrived at White Sands National Park in the early afternoon and explored as the sky slowly turned from bright blue to deeper purple and pink as the evening crept in and the sun slowly began to set. It’s a place you’ll want to linger, yes, and plan your return.

A selfie moment at White Sands

A selfie moment at White Sands

The sands get their white colour from gypsum crystals - the largest such dunefield on earth. Formed 7,000-10,000 years ago from selenite crystals that over time eroded into gypsum, White Sands National Park is today occasionally subject to closure, as it’s completely surrounded by the White Sands Missile Range. It’s certainly one of the most alien landscapes I’ve ever seen, and it’s easy to park your car at one of many stopping points in the park and quickly get lost in the dunes (be sure to bring plenty of water and know how to make your way back to your car). The deep blue outline of the San Andres range contrasts with the stark white wind patterns etched into the dunes, broken every so often by the thin lines of a determined desert plant. I experienced several dune stages: an initial liberating exploration marked by the sheer pleasure of running fresh tracks and rolling in the sand to feel its warmth; a secondary, more productive phase that entailed resurrecting childhood gymnastics moves; finally, a contemplative phase during which I sat in place, jotting down stray thoughts and having deeper conversations with friends and family in faraway places over the phone. 

White Sands National Park

White Sands National Park

White Sands National Park

White Sands National Park

White Sands National Park

White Sands National Park

I would happily have lingered longer, but I’d booked a motel just outside Carlsbad for the night, and a longer drive through the Lincoln National Forest (during which it snowed!) still awaited me. I’d recommend staying in the area if you’ve got more time, but I really enjoyed arriving to Carlsbad Caverns National Park the next morning just before opening, which allowed me to be the first person to enter that day. Combined with a New York City walking speed, this meant I had a good 15-20 minutes alone in the depths of the caverns before any other visitors caught up to interrupt the slow dripping sounds echoing within the cave system. Much of the system is inaccessible to visitors, and the open part unfortunately has ropes and clearly-marked walking paths, which take away from what otherwise might feel closer to nature. It’s still very much worth a visit, especially if you can get there before the crowds. 

Stalagmites and stalactites at Carlsbad Caverns National Park

Stalagmites and stalactites at Carlsbad Caverns National Park

Carlsbad Caverns National Park

Carlsbad Caverns National Park

Driving north towards Santa Fe, I passed by Roswell, whose claim to fame is the “UFO” crash in 1947 (the UFO in question was actually a U.S. Air Force weather balloon), and which now houses a UFO museum and research center. As I approached Vaughn, the landscape became increasingly desolate, with an occasional shuttered gas station or motel that appeared to date back to the 1950s. It’s the kind of place where time has stopped, and most people simply pass through, but as I think back on my trip, those memories of the afternoon desert sun shining on a place fallen out of favour linger. 

Musicians in downtown Santa Fe

Musicians in downtown Santa Fe

Kakawa Chocolate House, Santa Fe

Kakawa Chocolate House, Santa Fe

I reached Santa Fe in the early evening, checking in to the Drury Plaza Hotel, for which I’d found an amazing rate online. It was a bit too chilly to use the rooftop pool, but I happily settled by the roaring fireplace in the lounge with a complimentary gin & tonic and light bites from the hotel’s free daily happy hour. Afterwards, I strolled through town, stumbling upon some live music, and picking up snacks and wine at La Casa Sena wine shop. I also enjoyed sampling some of Gruet’s delicious sparkling wines at their Santa Fe tasting room, and for dessert, Kakawa Chocolate house is unbeatable. Their hot chocolate elixir is some of the best I’ve ever had, and it’s impossible to leave without sampling some of their handmade chocolates. 

The following day, I set out early for the 2 hour drive to Taos for a day of skiing. The conditions at the mountain can be hit or miss depending on the snowfall, but the terrain is still exciting. After a few runs, I grew tired of the quaint, slow lift chairs that are in need of an upgrade - time truly does feel like it runs more slowly. 

Skiing at Taos

Skiing at Taos

Skiing at Taos

Skiing at Taos

En route back to Santa Fe, I passed through a number of picturesque towns, including Arroyo Seco, which features a few small gift shops. Should you have more time, further west lies Carson National Forest, home to more stunning landscapes, including the area around Abiquiu, from where Georgia O’Keeffe drew inspiration. As mine was a shorter trip, I had to settle for checking out some of her art at the small but excellently curated Georgia O’Keeffe museum in downtown Santa Fe. The more I travel, the more I like to give myself a reason to go back to a place I really enjoyed to which I might not otherwise pay another visit. So, New Mexico, I’ll be back!

Where to eat & drink

Sugies Diner, Las Cruces

Gruet’s tasting room, Santa Fe

Kakawa Chocolate house, Santa Fe

La Casa Sena, Santa Fe

Where to stay

Drury Plaza Hotel, Santa Fe

Paintings at the Georgia O’Keeffe museum in Santa Fe

Paintings at the Georgia O’Keeffe museum in Santa Fe

Winter escapes: Banff National Park, Alberta, Canada

As we drove, the peaks of the surrounding snow-capped mountains gradually came into view, reflecting the deep pink and violet hues of a new day. The excitement that comes with a clear day and the promise of several inches of fresh overnight powder filled the car, and after we parked at the Lake Louise ski resort, we donned our remaining ski gear with a sense of urgency. Of course, we were not the only ones with these thoughts, and the lines for both the gondola and Glacier Express chair snaked with a multitude of colourful snow jackets and chatter. 

Skiing at Lake Louise

Skiing at Lake Louise

But the mountain has room for everyone, and we skied all morning in sheer glee, finding pockets of powder under the t-bar near the peak and lapping our favorite runs with breathless, leg-burning zest. Eventually, when our quad muscles could take no more, we skied over to the Whitehorn Bistro (located at 6700’, or 2042m, above sea level) to enjoy inside-warming hot chocolate (spiked if that’s how you like it) and fondue served with a range of vegetables and potatoes. It’s for days like this that I tolerate winter.

One of many ice sculptures at Lake Louise

One of many ice sculptures at Lake Louise

Ice skating on Lake Louise

Ice skating on Lake Louise

Skiing isn’t the only reason to come to Lake Louise, a small town nestled in Banff National Park in the Canadian Rockies, approximately a two-hour drive from Calgary International airport. Of the many winter activities on offer, you can go mushing with Snowy Owl dog sled tours, ice skating on Lake Louise, snowshoeing any of the nearby trails, checking out the ice sculptures in front of the Fairmont Chateau, or simply sightseeing in nearby places like the stunning Abraham Lake, where methane bubbles form when the lake freezes over in the early winter. The road there is equally beautiful, winding by Peyto Lake and the Waterfowl Lakes, surrounded by striking, snow-clad peaks. Nature at its wild best has a real way of reminding us how small we are.

Waterfowl Lakes, Banff National Park

Waterfowl Lakes, Banff National Park

Walking across Abraham Lake

Walking across Abraham Lake

Abraham Lake

Abraham Lake

You’ll also find world-class wine lists and top-notch food: The Post Hotel & Spa as well as the Fairmont Chateau feature both higher-end and less expensive dining options. We had fantastic burgers at the Outpost Pub at the The Post Hotel and delicious cocktails and light bites at the Lakeview Lounge at the Fairmont Chateau, with unrivaled views of the lake and surrounding mountains through the enormous arched windows. We stayed at the Lake Louise Inn, which features spacious rooms and a common area with a large pool and three hot tubs that are the perfect spot to massage your muscles after skiing all day. There are also free shuttles directly to the base of the mountain. Bill Peyto’s Cafe, at the nearby HI Lake Louise hostel, is also walking distance and features large portions across a fairly eclectic menu. 

Lake Louise itself is relatively sleepy, so if you’re looking for more of a nightlife scene, stay in the town of Banff, approximately a 40 minute drive from Lake Louise. You’ll find a range of restaurant options and bars to suit most tastes, as well as the Banff Upper hot springs, to which you’ll receive free admission vouchers if you flash your Ikon pass at the SkiBig3 adventure hub on Banff Ave in town. Our favourite spot for tasty, inventive cocktails and delicious small plates is Block Kitchen + Bar, and a short stroll will bring you to the Banff Ave Brewing Co for a selection of local beers while a hockey match (you are in Canada, after all) plays in the background. Reasonably priced accommodation with hot tubs includes Inns of Banff, or Hidden Ridge Resort, a short drive or shuttle ride from the town center. And of course, the Banff Sunshine ski resort is just outside of town, a slightly flatter but still challenging mountain that’s a great alternative to Lake Louise. Both mountains are currently on the Mountain Collective and Ikon passes, so a ski vacation here need not break the bank. 

The view at Banff Sunshine ski resort

The view at Banff Sunshine ski resort

Should you find yourself back in Calgary with some time before your flight, we thoroughly enjoyed the barbecue and whiskey selection at Hayden Block Smoke & Whiskey in the Hillhurst area. The pork ribs and brisket, washed down by a rye, are a fitting end to an adventure-filled trip to this winter wonderland. 

Where to eat & drink

Whitehorn Bistro, Lake Louise Ski Resort, Lake Louise

Outpost Pub (and main restaurant), The Post Hotel & Spa, Lake Louise

Lakeview Lounge, Fairmont hotel, Lake Louise

Bill Peyto’s Cafe, Lake Louise

Block Kitchen + Bar, Banff

Banff Ave Brewing Co, Banff

Hayden Block Smoke & Whiskey, Calgary

Where to stay

Lake Louise Inn, Lake Louise

The Post Hotel & Spa, Lake Louise

Fairmont Chateau, Lake Louise

Inns of Banff, Banff

Hidden Ridge Resort, Banff