New Zealand: the North of the North

January 27, 2020

If you’ve read my previous post about New Zealand, you’ll know I fell for the country pretty hard when I visited the North and South islands in a whirlwind two weeks. I went back last month for more, this time spending two weeks in the northern parts of the North Island, which seemed fitting for summertime. It is truly one of my favourite countries in the world: nowhere else is there such a perfect combination of diversity of landscape, little crowding, and amazing local food.

I’ve broken the below into three regional sections; feel free to skip ahead to Auckland & Waiheke, Northland or Waikato & Bay of Plenty.

Auckland & Waiheke

After landing in Auckland, I checked into my cozy Airbnb near the waterfront and strolled over to Shucker Brothers for a feast of local oysters and fish & chips. The following morning, after some light bites at the Auckland Fish Market, I took Fullers ferry over to Waiheke island, known for its vineyards and fresh seafood, for a day trip. Just 30 min each way, the ferry makes the island incredibly accessible, and it’s advisable to rent a car to visit the different vineyards. I stopped for a quick breakfast at Solar Eating House with nice views overlooking Oneroa Bay before continuing eastward towards Man O’ War vineyards, as the paved road turned to gravel and the scenery becoming increasingly wider expanses of green dotted with sheep. There’s a calm bay with a thin stretch of pebbly beach here, which in the summertime fills with boats, swimmers, and kayakers. The wines at Man O’ War are some of the best on the island, with crisp, minerally whites and peppery Syrahs.

The beach by Man O’War vineyards, Waiheke Island

More food may be in order prior to trying more wines, and fortunately Poderi Crisci, run by a Neapolitan named Antonio, is not far away. A picturesque garden setting filled with the smell of jasmine and lavender welcomes you to your table, and traditional Italian staples are on offer. Alternatively, head back towards Onetangi Bay for a delicious seafood spread at Three Seven Two, which has a fantastic indoor/outdoor layout and overlooks the wide stretch of beach. The oysters were some of the best I had in New Zealand, and the wine list is superb.

For something a bit different, check out Casita Miro, which feels like stepping into Parc Guell in Barcelona. The wines are decent, but the views make it worth a stop. For better wines, head to Tantalus and the neighbouring Stonyridge, which I followed with a quick stop at the Te Matuku Bay seafood market for another dozen local oysters. Cap off the day at Cable Bay Vineyards, with views of Auckland in the distance. For dinner, back in Auckland, I thoroughly enjoyed the lamb chop at Giraffe together with a friend who flew in to join me for the remainder of the trip.

Northland

Feeling full of oysters and lamb and wine, a rare and happy feeling, the following day we made our way north towards Matapouri, the jumping off point for the Poor Knights Islands, one of New Zealand’s best dive sites. En route, we stopped at the Kaiwaka Cheese shop to sample some local cheeses and other products: the manuka smoked cheddar and jalapeno gouda were particularly tasty. Further north, a quick hike led to the scenic Whangarei Falls, and nearby was the highlight of the day: Abbey Caves. A set of 3 caves reachable from the road via a short walk, these are particularly special because they aren’t commercialised and are filled with glowworms! To the uninitiated, glowworms are not actually worms, but rather larvae of fungus gnats (a much less glamourous term) that produce a bioluminescent blue-green glow. Some of the entrances to the caves are a bit tight, and the caves can be quite wet, so wear appropriate clothing and footwear (ideally water shoes or hiking shoes that can get wet, as well as a headlamp). Turn off your lights once well inside and enjoy the spectacle!

Our Airbnb near Matapouri was clean and well-located to the dive shop the next morning. We went with Yukon dives, and the boat was one of the nicest dive boats I have ever been on, complete with an upper outside area and a lower, fully-enclosed space full of comfortable bean bags and pillows. Beware, however, the water temperatures, which were at just 17C. These are drysuit diving waters, though the dive shop will assure you that everyone is fine in the 6.5mm wetsuits and hoods they supply. I insisted on layering an additional 3mm wetsuit on top of that, and I was still absolutely freezing within about 60 seconds of entering the water. The water was relatively choppy, though underneath the surface, the sway of the large-leafed, bright yellow and green algae was mesmerising. Large schools of fish and stingrays abounded, and multiple swimthroughs surrounded by the yellow algae truly made this a memorable divesite. In the shallows, caverns along the islands make for spectacular backlit window vistas onto the depths.

Resident emus at Raewyn & Rosco’s farmstay

Homemade Christmas dessert at Raewyn & Rosco’s farmstay

One of the most memorable Airbnbs of the trip was Raewyn & Rosco’s farmstay in Waiharara, where I was lucky enough to be over Christmas. Their dog Jess came out to greet me, nearly jumping into my car. They joked that since they didn’t have much family in the area, they had rented Americans to entertain them over the holidays. But they have many animals to make up for it: emus, cows, pigs, and ducks roam about, and the property borders a scenic creek upon which you can canoe. They cooked a fantastic Christmas dinner that we were invited to share in, and their breakfasts were the best of the trip. Raewyn & Rosco’s hospitality made me feel right at home despite being thousands of miles away from my own family.

The next day, we took an incredibly scenic road trip up to Cape Reinga, the northernmost point of New Zealand. It is where the Tasman and Pacific seas meet in a thunderous mix of greens, blues, and greys, and it’s a place of special significance to the Maori, New Zealand’s indigenous people: it is the point where the spirits of the dead enter the underworld. A stunning hiking path leads from near the lighthouse at the end of the peninsula to the completely wild Te Werahi beach. Dress in layers and wear sunscreen; conditions can change quickly.

Cape Reinga with a view to Te Werahi beach

A short drive away are the equally stunning Te Paki giant sand dunes. You’d not be remiss to think you could be somewhere in the middle east, and yet all of these incredibly varied landscapes are in just one part of one small country. Bring a board to coast down the dunes, or simply enjoy getting lost in the alien landscape.

Should you be craving a swim after the dryness of the dunes, head to nearby white sand Rarawa beach. If you’ve got a 4x4, you can actually drive onto the beach if you’d like. Kitesurfing is possible here as well if the conditions are right. We also checked out the much windier 90 mile beach (it truly does stretch as far as the eye can see in either direction) on the windward side of the peninsula, where tides can change quickly and more than a few cars have gotten stuck.

Our next stop was another farmstay Airbnb further south in Ruawai. En route, we stopped at the Mangonui fish shop for some fish & chips, followed by the Puketi Forest for a short loop hike through a large grove of the currently endangered kauri trees, a species endemic to New Zealand. These large behemoths are reminiscent of California redwoods, but are currently being killed off by an incurable pathogen that can be spread in a single pinhead of soil (typically due to human activity). Signs and spray canisters at the start of trails instruct you to wash and disinfect the soles of your shoes to help prevent spreading the disease.

The road from Puketi to Ruawai was one of the curviest and emptiest of the trip, and a true pleasure to drive along. Upon reaching Pete & Sara’s farmstay, we were met by Pete, who promptly took us on a short hike to Tokatoka peak to enjoy the vista over the surrounding plains together with his dalmatian, Bella. A former dairy farmer, Pete’s boundless energy and enthusiasm for hosting visitors from around the world was infectious. He introduced us to the alpacas, sheep and donkeys on his farm and showed us how to feed them, and after a home-cooked dinner, we wheeled out his large telescopic to look at the clear night sky largely free of noise pollution. I woke up at 6am to join him at a neighbouring dairy farm where I learned about the process and even milked a couple of cows. Northland is truly New Zealand at its best.

Waikato & Bay of Plenty

From the rolling hills of Northland, we headed east to the Coromandel peninsula, known among Kiwis for its spectacular beaches and stunning cliffside walks. The drive there along the Firth of Thames is a stunning one and worth the slight detour from the main highway road. Stripes of aqua, turquoise and deep blue merge into each other, and a stroll through Waitawa Regional Park can be a great place to stretch your legs.

New Chums beach, reachable via a short hike

Coromandel itself is a cute seaside town and a nice spot for a stroll. I picked up some local cheeses and snacks at The Coromandel Smoking Co, and Umu Cafe serves up tasty breakfasts. We unfortunately didn’t have enough time to head up to Fletcher Bay and the Coromandel Coastal Walkway, but it is supposed to be a spectacular day hike. We did do a short walk along the coastline to reach New Chums Beach, which was perhaps one of the prettiest beaches of the trip (it is frequently voted one of New Zealand’s most beautiful beaches). From there, we stopped off for a daily dose of oysters at Salt Restaurant in Whitianga and enjoyed lazing on Hahei beach as afternoon turned to twilight and the sun disappeared behind us.

The following morning, I woke up before sunrise to walk to Cathedral Cove before the crowds. It was well worth it, as there were just a few others there, and the lighting was spectacular for photography. Incredibly crowded and hence skippable, however, was Hot Water Beach. There are a number of other spots where you can enjoy the thermal heat without the crowds (more on that later). Breakfast at Flatwhite in Waihi features a great view over the ocean and delicious food, and we were lucky enough to be in town for the weekly farmer’s market, where we purchased some eggs and avocados for the coming days.

Also well worth a stop is the Leveret Estate winery, which features award-winning and reasonably priced wines as well as very kind and patient salespeople. From there, we checked into our Airbnb in Tauranga (with a hot tub!), where we were welcomed by the very kind Pete and Karen and nice views over the surrounding area. We headed to Waimarino Adventure Park for an evening kayaking trip to McLaren Falls Park, complete with more glowworms. We set out in small groups of kayakers as the last rays of the day illuminated the lake and its numerous black swans and headed upstream to a few channels where glowworms illuminate the surrounding rocks. It was truly a magical evening.

The following morning, I set out early to complete the Tarawera Trail, a 15k one-way hike along Lake Tarawera to Hot Water Beach, which, as the name implies, is a thermally heated beach on the lake where you can dig your own hot water pools or simply swim in heated areas of the lake by the shore. You book a water taxi to take you back from here to where you parked your car. The hike will take you through lakeside bushland and varied tree groves, featuring a number of intermittent climbs. The swim at the end of the hike is a relaxing reward, though be sure to book your water taxi in advance, as it runs only if it’s been booked.

The following morning was New Year’s Eve, and in an effort to show off some dewy skin, we booked a mudbath and sulphur bath at the aptly named Hell’s Gate. A walk through the area takes you through various bubbling pools and beautiful colours from the bacteria that survive in this extreme temperatures before you settle into the mudbath. An attendant will explain the best way to apply the mud, and after 20 minutes, you are whisked off to the sulphur pools (bring an old bathing suit, as you will likely never be able to wash out the smell) to allow your skin to further soften.

Afterwards, I hiked through the nearby Waimangu Volcanic Valley, which features numerous spectacularly coloured pools and streams due to the underlying thermal activity in the area. In the evening, we enjoyed the small fireworks show over Lake Taupo and lingered on the beach, parts of which are also thermally heated. It was a fitting end to a spectacular decade.

Mine Bay Maori rock carvings, Lake Taupo

I started off the New Year the following morning with a 5k kayak (each way) from Acacia Bay (hire your own kayak or join a tour) to the Maori rock carvings at Mine Bay. Kayaking will take about 75 minutes each way, so it’s not a bad idea to bring along a friend to make it a bit easier on the arms. The rock carvings are quite large and intricate, and the views of snow-capped Mt Tongariro, Mt Ruapehu and Mt Ngauruhoe in the distance over Lake Taupo make the trip even more spectacular.

Emerald Lakes, Tongariro Alpine Crossing

Of course, one of the most popular activities in the area is the 20k Tongariro Alpine Crossing hike. Last time I visited New Zealand, strong winds prevented me from doing the hike, but this time the weather was on my side. I booked a one-way shuttle from the Ketetahi car park to the start of the trail with Tongariro Expeditions and found myself starting the hike just after 6am as the golden orb of the sun rose into a hazy morning. The landscape varies from light brush and volcanic rock to something best described as lunar to thick forest, and temperatures vary accordingly; I was grateful for my gloves and windproof jacket at the start of the hike, but I’d shed most of my layers about halfway through. The climax, with the aptly named and spectacularly hued Red Crater coming into view, occurs about halfway through the hike. Soon after, the three bright Emerald lakes steal the show, followed by a steep scramble that leads into the seemingly never-ending descent.

Mountain biking is also on offer in the area, and we checked out some of the trails that form the Craters of the Moon geothermal area as well as past Huka Falls and up the Waikato River. You can rent bikes from FourB, and take a dip in the Warm Water Lake area of Lake Taupo for a soothing reward afterwards. I very much enjoyed the seafood at the Edgewater Restaurant with views overlooking the sunset on the lake in the evening, and the lamb and scallop risotto at Vine Eatery were one of my favourite meals of the trip.

Abseiling into the Lost World cave, Waitomo

On our last day in New Zealand, we did the Lost World tour with Waitomo Adventures, during which you abseil about 100 metres down into a wet cave system and something that truly does look like a long-forgotten world. I was happy to have selected the 4-hour rather than the full day tour: half a day gives a nice highlight of the experience and does not require wearing a wetsuit and getting completely wet. There are glowworms here, too, and the cave features beautiful vistas looking back through the natural window at the entrance. Keep in mind that what goes down into a cave must come up, and there’s a ladder with over 100 rungs that you’ll have to climb at the end to get out.

Afterwards, we enjoyed cups of locally grown tea and some light snacks at the Zealong Tea Estate en route back to Auckland, where we feasted on cloudy bay clams in a coriander sauce along with fresh oysters at Depot, and lingered over creative cocktail creations at John & May’s. We had a great night’s sleep at our Airbnb in Auckland, which featured amazing views of the city, a hot tub, and yes, a trampoline. The following day, the sky had turned an unearthly yellow hue due to the Australian wildfires. It was a stark reminder that despite being endowed with all the beauty in the world, New Zealand is still affected by human (in)action, and what we do directly affects the world around us.

Where to eat & drink

Shucker Brothers, Auckland

Auckland Fish Market, Auckland

Giraffe, Auckland

Depot, Auckland

John & May’s, Auckland

Solar Eating House, Waiheke Island

Man O’ War vineyards, Waiheke Island

Poderi Crisci, Waiheke Island

Three Seven Two, Waiheke Island

Casita Miro, Waiheke Island

Tantalus, Waiheke Island

Stonyridge, Waiheke Island

Cable Bay Vineyards, Waiheke Island

Kaiwaka Cheese shop, Kaiwaka, Northland

Mangonui Fish Shop, Mangonui, Northland

The Coromandel Smoking Co, Coromandel, Waikato

Umu Cafe, Coromandel, Waikato

Salt Restaurant, Whitianga, Waikato

Zealong Tea Estate, near Hamilton, Waikato

Edgewater Restaurant, Taupo, Waikato

Vine Eatery, Taupo, Waikato

Flatwhite, Waihi, Bay of Plenty

Leveret Estate winery, Katikati, Bay of Plenty

Find local businesses, view maps and get driving directions in Google Maps.

Map of the approximate route driven (roughly 2,800km in total)

In search of rhythm in Cape Verde

October 30, 2019

“Where is Cape Verde?,” you might ask, and you would not be alone. Located a few hundred miles off the coast of Senegal, this set of volcanically formed islands is on few travellers’ radars. The country is also relatively hard to reach - direct flights run from either Lisbon or Ponta Delgada in the Azores, though fares are typically priced very reasonably. Geologically similar to the Azores, Cape Verde also has a Portuguese colonial history, achieving independence in 1975. Portuguese is spoken, as is Creole, with occasional English.

But this is a very different place than the Azores. You are no longer in Europe, but in Africa. Upon landing at Praia, I encountered a set of taxis waiting in front of the airport, charging a hefty 1,000 escudos ($10) for the 5-7 minute drive into the city. I declined, as I would have a night in Praia at the end of my trip, and opted to wait the four hours before my next internal flight at the airport cafe.

I was headed to São Vicente, the home of famed singer Cesária Évora, and the musical and cultural capital of the islands. Binter CV Airlines makes the trip, and on approach to São Vicente, a small church dramatically perched on rocky cliffs appears off the left side of the plane as you touch down 50 minutes later. I’d rented a car from Dyrk, and Emerson, the nephew of the owner, met me at the small airport. He was kind enough to stay with me as we sought to locate Georgette Guesthouse, on the fifth floor of a relatively modern apartment building overlooking the man-made but incredibly striking Laginha beach. The guesthouse’s stunning balcony, spacious rooms and hearty breakfast made it the perfect place to stay in Mindelo.

View of Laginha beach from Georgette’s guesthouse in Mindelo

After settling in, I went for a quick dip in the ocean, eyeing the island of Santo Antão in the distance, where I would head the following day. But first, food. I had a delicious octopus dish at Kalimba beach club, located directly on the beach, with incredibly friendly staff, followed by my first time trying percebes (goose neck barnacles, which are notoriously difficult and dangerous to gather) at Casa Cafe Mindelo. Percebes taste of the sea, with a texture similar to soft clams. Restaurants in Mindelo frequently feature live music from local bands and artists, and music videos of Cape Verdean artists looped for hours in the city’s cafes. The vibe is vibrant and energised in the most laid back way, so that time flows fluidly, and nothing is ever rushed. This is island life, after all.

The next morning, I took the ferry (along with my rental car) to Santo Antão, perhaps the most beautiful of the three islands I visited on this trip. The ferry arrives in Porto Novo, which is unremarkable except as a place to get supplies at a local mini-market, or for a fish dinner at the Italian-run Ristorante La Lampara. Take the interior road, a great source of pride for Cape Verdeans, which was hand-paved in granite stones several decades ago over the course of several years to reach Ponta do Sol at the other end. The vistas en route are simply otherworldly: fast-moving fog enveloping lush greenery, steep mountain passes, and locals going about their daily lives watching you as you drive by. I found myself gasping aloud in my car at the sheer beauty. There are also aluguers, or local collective minivans, that drive these routes, but I preferred to have my own car to maintain the freedom to stop when I wanted. As I encountered few other cars along the route, frequent stops for breathtaking views and photos were easy. On a couple occasions, locals approached me for a ride to the next village, and I happily obliged. Even as a solo female traveller, I never felt unsafe - ridesharing is simply a part of the culture, and it led to several interesting conversations and encounters. My Portuguese is basic, but I gave a ride to a papaya grower going to market who left me one as a gift, a schoolgirl who spoke fluent French and was curious about what I was doing in her country, and an elderly gentleman who was going to visit family in a neighbouring town. Yes, I did receive my fair share of stares most everywhere I went, but I ascribe that to the novelty of a solo female traveller in these parts.

View of Covo, the interior crater on Santo Antão

Once you reach Ponta do Sol, I highly recommend walking the road to Fontainhas (you reach it by heading left after the highest church in town; ask any of the locals), or driving if you’ve got a 4x4. The vistas are striking, and Fontainhas is something of its own world. I made the trek a couple of hours before sunset, and the colour palette was quite unlike anything I’d seen before. As with most places in Cape Verde, I encountered fewer than five other tourists en route.

I took the easier (and sometimes paved, thanks to a recent collaboration with an Italian construction company) coastal road to return to Porto Novo, spending the night en route at an Airbnb near Paul, in the village of Pombas. In the waning hours of the afternoon, I strolled by Senhor Ildo’s grog (a local sugarcane liquor) distillery to sample some of the local products and learn about how they are made. In the morning, a sausage and egg cachupa (the national dish, typically a slow-cooked stew of various meats and vegetables) took some time but was a tasty base for the day at Casa Maracuja.

A grog distillery near Paul, Santo Antão

Cachupa at Chez Loutcha, Mindelo, São Vicente

Upon my return to Sao Vicente, I decided to check out Salamansa, a small fishing village on the island’s north coast made famous by a Cesária Évora song by the same name. There’s a small creperie right on the beach, and you can hire kitesurfing equipment should you find yourself there in winter months with higher winds. Baia das Gatas was largely skippable, but driving further east, with dramatic views en route, you’ll reach the rockier stretches of Calhau, where the road ends. Further south lies the sprawling sandy expanse of São Pedro, perhaps the nicest beach on the island. Circle back to Mindelo for dinner at Chez Loutcha (be sure to try the cachupa and the canja de galinha, a hearty take on chicken soup) followed by a nightcap at the Clube Nautico.

The road between Salamansa and Calhau, São Vicente, Cape Verde

On my final day, after flying back to Praia, I chose to explore the capital on foot from my base at my Airbnb in Plateau. Plateau is pleasant enough, and you can walk through the local market as well as by the Presidential Palace. But I would not recommend walking on foot into the central part of town from here: this was the first and only time I felt unsafe in the country, as I encountered solo or pairs of males who made unpleasant comments as I passed, and the general state of affairs was very run-down. I made it on foot to the local monument to Pope John Paul II, who visited the country in 1990, and in whose honour there is both a cross and a statue that serves as something of a local gathering place for all. Although I am not personally religious, visiting this site was personally touching given the Pope was Polish, and I felt a common ground that unites people around the world, despite their many differences. Cape Verde is not an easy place to visit, but it is all the more rewarding for that very reason.

Packing list:

Hiking clothes & shoes
Rain jacket
Mosquito repellent
Bathing suit
Sunscreen

Where to stay:

Georgette Guesthouse, Mindelo, Sao Vicente

Paul Airbnb, Santo Antao

Praia Airbnb, Santiago

Where to eat and drink:

Kalimba beach club, Mindelo, Sao Vicente

Casa Cafe Mindelo, Mindelo, Sao Vicente

Chez Loutcha, Mindelo, Sao Vicente

Bar Creperie Chez Zoe, Salamansa, Sao Vicente

Ristorante La Lampara, Porto Novo, Santo Antao

Casa Maracuja, Paul, Santo Antao

Nice Kriola, Praia, Santiago

Aruba: wrecks, beaches and kites

April 20, 2019

Aruba isn’t the kind of place that would normally be at the top of my list, as it’s heavily frequented by cruise ships and package tourists. But its small size belies a vibrant culture and history.

During World War II, the SS Antilla, a German cargo ship built for trade with the Caribbean, found refuge in neutral Aruba. Her German crew scuttled the ship to avoid capture by the Dutch in 1940 when their country invaded the Netherlands, and it remains one of the largest wrecks in the Caribbean. Today, numerous fish, sea turtles, corals and eels have made the ship their home, to the delight of groups of divers who visit daily. The water temperature is unexpectedly cold, at 23C in January, so bring your thickest wetsuit! I went diving with Happy Divers in conjunction with a second dive at the beautifully preserved Arashi reef, but all dive shops on the island offer only 2-3mm shorties, so it’s best to arrive with your own gear.

Above water, Aruba offers numerous pretty stretches of sand, though they can get quite crowded and noisy on the weekends or when one of the larger cruise ships docks in port. My favourite is the more low-key Druif Beach along which lies the low-rise Divi Dutch Village Beach Resort. Worth a stop are Divi Beach and Arashi Beach, and we enjoyed watching the kitesurfers cruise along the shoreline at Boca Grandi. Due to the rocky shoreline, the western side of the island is quieter and much less crowded. Skippable is Baby Beach, which was full of unloadings from the cruise ships and unfriendly touts charging upwards of $100 for a bit of shade. Should you want to brush up or try out your kitesurfing skills, the Aruba kitesurfing school on the east side of the island is a good choice. The calmer winds are great for beginners.

Scenes from Atardi

The longer Palm beach, along which lie the island’s high-rise hotels as well as one of Aruba’s best restaurants, the beachfront Atardi, is also worth a stroll. Atardi is surprisingly one of the few restaurants on the island at which you can eat with your feet in the sand. Particularly delicious and creative are their preparations of octopus, burrata, and macadamia-crusted grouper. We also enjoyed our dinner at the Italian-influenced Faro Blanco, though the views certainly outshine the food. Matthew’s is another spot near the beach great for brunch, and the Dutch Pancakehouse is deservedly popular for its namesake dish. For a quick bite to eat, Pastechi House is a good choice, and the frozen coffee at Juan Valdez is a great morning or afternoon pick-me-up.

We stayed at a wonderful Airbnb in the capital, Oranjestad, run by our host Marlene and her husband Sylvester that we would happily stay at again. You will definitely want to rent a car, as public transit on the island is relatively limited. With all of the available activities, Aruba is a perfect long weekend or even weeklong getaway.

Where to eat

Atardi (one of the best restaurants on the island, right on the sand on Palm Beach)
Faro Blanco, north of Arashi beach
Matthew’s for brunch
Dutch Pancakehouse for breakfast or lunch
Pastechi House for the local snack of the same name
Screaming Eagle for a nice sit-down dinner and high-end wine list, including its cult namesake

¡República Dominicana!

January 23, 2019

To limit the Dominican Republic to the popular all-inclusive resorts of Punta Cana would be to miss the country’s spectacular northern coast, full of miles of unspoilt, lush green vegetation, white-sand beaches, and perfectly curving palm trees. Welcome to Samaná, the Dominican Republic’s northeastern peninsula! Here, from January to March, you can often catch glimpses of humpback whales just offshore. Or enjoy the quirky mix of locals and foreigners who fell in love with the area and now call it their home. You can have entire beaches practically to yourself (though beware of strong currents in some places) - it’s the ideal hideaway to write that book you’ve been putting off, or just spend quality time with the family.

Prices throughout the Dominican Republic are very reasonable (on average, we spent $70 to stay at well maintained B&Bs that typically also included breakfast). After stopping for a quick meal just east of the airport, complete with jugo de chinola (passionfruit juice) at Puerco Rosado in Boca Chica, we headed north to Las Galeras, a small village in the northeast corner of the Samaná peninsula. We stayed at a beautiful but hard to reach B&B, El Monte Azul, led by a charming French couple, Vanina and Pierre. The views from the infinity pool and restaurant (open only at lunch, as the owners recently opened La Joia in town for dinner) are spectacular, though the last few steep, uphill curves along the unpaved road to reach the house were difficult for our underpowered car. After relaxing in the pool, we enjoyed some sunset cocktails at the pretty but somewhat run-down El Cabito and a tasty, Thai-inspired dinner at La Joia.

The following day, we lingered at Playa Rincon, exploring a few different local BBQ spots, finally settling at the open-air Bar y Grill Minin, at the far eastern end of the beach, for a couple of different freshly caught fish and delicious piña coladas served directly in the pineapple. We then drove southwest to the public pier next to the Gran Bahia Principe hotel just east of the town of Samaná and negotiated a private boat ride to nearby Cayo Levantado, a popular island getaway for both locals and tourists alike. The ride takes approximately 15 minutes, and the island features a beautiful white sand beach, complete with a number of stands selling small tourist souvenirs and drinks. The other half of the island is privately owned by the hotel and is inaccessible to visitors. While it was certainly a more popular place than Playa Rincon, it didn’t feel overly touristy, and the water was great for swimming or just taking a dip.

We drove onwards to Las Terrenas, a slightly larger town with more low-rise hotels and restaurants, where we had a delicious beachside dinner and drinks in gorgeously designed surroundings at Porto while watching the sunset change the colours of the sea and sand. We stayed at La Casa de Sergio y Cristina, a short drive away, which featured spacious rooms, a pair of friendly dogs, and a filling breakfast (the best we had on the trip, including omelettes as well as nutella souffles). Our stomachs full, we took a long stroll on Playa Cosón, encountering a total of just five other people on the most beautiful beach of the trip. Contemplating it, you wonder when its time will come, and whether one day this place, too, will look like modern-day Cancun. In the meantime, we were free to enjoy the wide, solitary expanses of sand, chirping tropical birds, and crashing of waves.

From Las Terrenas, we headed northwest, stopping en route at Laguna El Dudu for some snorkeling and a jump off a zipline in the beautiful cenotes. The water was cool but a refreshing contrast to the relative afternoon heat. Afterwards, we enjoyed a late afternoon lunch at the high-end Amanera resort (reservations required) at the far western end of Playa Grande (worth a stop on its own) before enjoying an evening with locals at Playa Caleton.

The following day, we continued on to the kitesurfing capital of Cabarete. While the weather did not cooperate, we enjoyed a breakfast at the Cabarate Coffee Company, which donates a percentage of sales to benefit a local organization dedicated to girls’ education. We also stopped at Sosúa, which felt too touristy for our preferences, and so we drove onward to Playa El Chaparral. Flanked by a couple of resorts, the middle section of the beach is relatively non trafficked, but it did not compare to the wild, vast expanses of beaches in the Samaná province. We followed the severely pockmarked road up to the Parque Nacional Isabel De Torres in Puerto Plata to get a nice panorama of the surrounding coast as well as a walk through the local flora. We enjoyed some light bites and drinks at Kaffe in town, as we planned to wake up early the following morning to experience the 27 waterfalls at Damajaguas.

A 45 min drive from Puerto Plata, Damajaguas did not disappoint. Arrive early in the morning when they open to beat the cruise ship groups, and you may get lucky and have the waterfalls largely to yourself. Be sure to wear a pair of water shoes (they are required; if you don’t have your own, you can rent a pair on location) and something comfortable to slide down natural rock slides. It’s an unforgettable experience.

While we didn’t have time to linger in Santiago Los Caballeros, we did stop for brunch at Camp David, with a spectacular vista over the surrounding area. The brunch menu featured a number of delicious options, including Nutella french toast, with elevated but still reasonable prices. Finally, we made our way to Santo Domingo, where we primarily focused on the vibrant Zona Colonial. Highlights included stumbling upon a local watering hole just off the Plaza Pellerano Castro, meandering the narrow, picturesque streets, and sampling tapas at Lulu Tasting Bar (50% off if you pay with an Amex card before 9pm). Also worth checking out (if you speak Spanish) is the Microteatro, which shows 20 minute long plays every 30 minutes (best to come in advance to purchase your ticket, as it does fill up). Finally, be sure to sample some local handmade chocolate (some good brands include Cacaoteca and Xocolat), which can be purchased in most larger supermarkets.

República Dominicana, I plan to be back, even if just for the chocolate.

Map of our route: https://goo.gl/maps/KU7ZabeYMXn

A few notes about renting a car in the Dominican Republic: Beware of scams run by car rental agencies outside of the top tier. In our case, we had booked a car with a credit card guarantee with Ace (which seems to do business primarily as Nelly in the country). After picking us up at the airport and driving us to their nearby location, they informed us they did not have any cars available. After some negotiation, a car materialised, but it was not a 4WD, as we had booked. Additional fees that the agent insisted were mandatory (despite us having our own insurance) resulted in a price nearly 3 times what we had reserved. My tip is to book with a reputable international company, such as Hertz or Avis, to avoid issues on the ground.

Despite a number of online posts to the contrary, driving in the Dominican Republic is relatively straightforward, minus a few hiccups. You will encounter potholes and speed bumps without warning, as well as locals casually crossing the road. In addition, Google Maps is sometimes incorrect, and we learned to use the satellite view to ensure that the app’s directions led us along actual roads. But once you adjust, and enter a more relaxed vacation mode, it’s really no different than driving everywhere else. During our 6-day, 5 night trip, in which we stayed at a different location each night, we encountered no issues; in fact, locals once stopped us to ensure we were on the correct road to reach our destination. One further tip: ensure you carry a good amount of Dominican pesos (we spent over 1500 during our trip), as there are tolls, and they only accept cash in the local currency.

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¡República Dominicana!

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