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City eats guide: Los Angeles

During my grad school years at Caltech, I lived in Los Angeles for five years. As a transplant from New York, I was initially skeptical of a city with few sidewalks where cars are king. But LA really surprised me in ways I did not expect, and it opened my eyes to the richness of cuisines of which I previously had no real understanding (I also have Jonathan Gold, the LA Times food critic, to thank for that). While I love living in NYC, it’s hard to beat LA’s Koreatown, San Gabriel Valley or plethora of regional Mexican restaurants.

A view of (somewhat smoggy) downtown LA

A view of (somewhat smoggy) downtown LA

On a recent trip, I revisited some of my old haunts and tried some new spots. Here’s a list of some of my favourites, in no particular order:

  • El huarache azteca (Highland Park) - Amazing Mexican specializing in huaraches

  • Guerilla taco (Downtown) - Creative and delicious tacos and tostadas

  • Soot Bull Jeep (Koreatown) - One of the best Koreatown BBQ spots

  • Chosun Galbi (Koreatown) - Another great Korean BBQ spot

  • Park's (Koreatown) - Another great Korean BBQ spot

  • Han il Kwan (Koreatown) - Unassuming spot for bibimbap (be sure to try their fish roe version, or albap)

  • Jae Bu Do (Koreatown) - Great for seafood BBQ, especially clams, and fun to go with a group. Gold’s review of this place is one of my favourite reviews ever.

  • Jun Won (Koreatown)  - Homestyle cooking with a great eundagu jorim (black cod casserole)

  • Settebello (multiple locations) - Settebello serves some of the best Neapolitan-style pizzas I have tasted in the U.S. (and it pains me deeply to write this as a New Yorker)

  • Sushi Nishiya (Glendale) - Owned by an unassuming husband and wife team in a strip mall, this place has some of the best sushi in LA. No California rolls or other such frills served here.

  • The Bazaar by Jose Andres (mid-Wilshire) - Inside the SLS hotel, this is a great special occasion place, with tasty tapas and fun cocktails (try the liquid nitrogen caipirinha)

  • Wassada (Koreatown) - The place to go in LA for live octopus (if you like your food to fight back)

  • Malan noodles (Hacienda Heights) - A bit farther afield, but if you are in the area, get the spicy beef noodles.

  • Din Tai Fung (multiple locations) - The initial location of this Taiwanese chain was in Arcadia, and the xiao long bao (soup dumplings) there are hard to beat. Other locations can be hit or miss.

  • Quality Seafoods (Redondo beach) - The freshest seafood in town. Located on the Redondo beach pier, come here to satisfy your fresh sea urchin, oyster, crab and fish cravings.

  • Animal (West Hollywood) - Great meat-focused restaurant with offal specialties. The foie gras and beef dish is a must.

  • The Nomad (Downtown) - The second location of the eponymous NYC hotel, LA’s version is NYC inspired with a twist of Mediterranean. The restaurant features a delicious set of small plates, and the cocktails and pool on the rooftop are refreshing and fun.

  • Maruhide Uni Club (Torrance) - If you’re an uni lover, this place will feel like heaven. Featuring uni served in a myriad different ways, it’s hard to go wrong. Highlights included the Ensui Uni Zen (stored in salt water, imparting a sweeter and richer taste) and the lightly grilled scallop and uni appetizer.

  • Gjelina (Venice) - A farm to table restaurant with great pastas that’s here to stay

  • Fishing with Dynamite (Manhattan Beach) - Fresh seafood in one of the nicest beach towns in LA with some of the best clam chowder and fun decor

  • Sugarfish (multiple locations) - Pretty good bang for your buck sushi

  • Son of a Gun (Mid-Wilshire) - Great southern influenced seafood, and they often have an uni dish to boot!

  • Jitlada (Silverlake) - Specialising in Southern Thai dishes, Jitlada is as authentic as you will get. The spice levels are real, and you will leave feeling like a fire-breathing dragon.

  • L&E Oyster (Silverlake) - Good oysters in Silverlake

  • Cafe Stella (Silverlake) - Great French brunch and dinner - be sure to try the escargots and the truffle fries, or the Moroccan eggs for brunch

  • Messob (Mid-Wilshire) - In the area known as Little Ethiopia on Fairfax Ave. Another good spot to try is Meals by Genet.

  • Daisy Mint (Pasadena) - Surprisingly good Thai fusion.

  • Diddy Reese (Westwood) - Go for their ice cream sandwich. The cookies themselves are great, the ice cream so-so, but the price ($3 or so) is unbeatable. There is often a line as it’s right next to UCLA.

  • Salt & Straw (multiple locations) - Some of the best ice cream around, including a delicious mint chip made with actual mint (a rarity these days) from Seely’s mint farm in Oregon