Aruba isn’t the kind of place that would normally be at the top of my list, as it’s heavily frequented by cruise ships and package tourists. But its small size belies a vibrant culture and history.
Druif Beach, Aruba
During World War II, the SS Antilla, a German cargo ship built for trade with the Caribbean, found refuge in neutral Aruba. Her German crew scuttled the ship to avoid capture by the Dutch in 1940 when their country invaded the Netherlands, and it remains one of the largest wrecks in the Caribbean. Today, numerous fish, sea turtles, corals and eels have made the ship their home, to the delight of groups of divers who visit daily. The water temperature is unexpectedly cold, at 23C in January, so bring your thickest wetsuit! I went diving with Happy Divers in conjunction with a second dive at the beautifully preserved Arashi reef, but all dive shops on the island offer only 2-3mm shorties, so it’s best to arrive with your own gear.
Cruise ship approaching Oranjestad
Kitesurfers off Boca Grandi beach
Above water, Aruba offers numerous pretty stretches of sand, though they can get quite crowded and noisy on the weekends or when one of the larger cruise ships docks in port. My favourite is the more low-key Druif Beach along which lies the low-rise Divi Dutch Village Beach Resort. Worth a stop are Divi Beach and Arashi Beach, and we enjoyed watching the kitesurfers cruise along the shoreline at Boca Grandi. Due to the rocky shoreline, the western side of the island is quieter and much less crowded. Skippable is Baby Beach, which was full of unloadings from the cruise ships and unfriendly touts charging upwards of $100 for a bit of shade. Should you want to brush up or try out your kitesurfing skills, the Aruba kitesurfing school on the east side of the island is a good choice. The calmer winds are great for beginners.
The longer Palm beach, along which lie the island’s high-rise hotels as well as one of Aruba’s best restaurants, the beachfront Atardi, is also worth a stroll. Atardi is surprisingly one of the few restaurants on the island at which you can eat with your feet in the sand. Particularly delicious and creative are their preparations of octopus, burrata, and macadamia-crusted grouper. We also enjoyed our dinner at the Italian-influenced Faro Blanco, though the views certainly outshine the food. Matthew’s is another spot near the beach great for brunch, and the Dutch Pancakehouse is deservedly popular for its namesake dish. For a quick bite to eat, Pastechi House is a good choice, and the frozen coffee at Juan Valdez is a great morning or afternoon pick-me-up.
View from Faro Blanco
We stayed at a wonderful Airbnb in the capital, Oranjestad, run by our host Marlene and her husband Sylvester that we would happily stay at again. You will definitely want to rent a car, as public transit on the island is relatively limited. With all of the available activities, Aruba is a perfect long weekend or even weeklong getaway.
Where to eat
Atardi (one of the best restaurants on the island, right on the sand on Palm Beach)
Faro Blanco, north of Arashi beach
Matthew’s for brunch
Dutch Pancakehouse for breakfast or lunch
Pastechi House for the local snack of the same name
Screaming Eagle for a nice sit-down dinner and high-end wine list, including its cult namesake
Palm beach, Aruba