Greenland: among the giants

Greenland always loomed large on the maps I spent hours poring over during my childhood. This is partly due to its actual size (it’s the largest island in the world) and partly due to land mass closer to the poles appearing more vertically stretched on common map projections. One of the first fun facts I learned about Greenland is that the Vikings named it so to entice more settlers. In reality, the vast majority of Greenland (80%) is covered by an ice cap, and its 55,000 inhabitants live predominantly along its western coast. While Greenland is geographically part of North America, it is politically part of Denmark (and autonomous in a number of ways). 

Kangerlussuaq airport, Greenland

Getting to Greenland requires some time and dedication, as the best way to reach it is via a nearly 5 hour flight from Copenhagen to Kangerlussuaq, a small town of about 500 inhabitants and the only airport in Greenland able to handle larger aircraft (originally built as a military base during World War II). Kangerlussuaq is a good jumping off point for visiting the polar ice cap (as a day trip, or more commonly an overnight camping trip), or for internal flights within Greenland. Note that the weather is notoriously fickle; delays and cancellations are not uncommon, so plan accordingly. Upon landing, I took a short flight to Ilulissat, a town further north on the western coast. There are no roads between towns in Greenland—just airplanes, boats, dog sleds, and snowmobiles. I booked all my flights directly (including the roundtrip from Copenhagen) via Air Greenland.

Colourful buildings in the town of Ilulissat

Walking around Ilulissat

While Ilulissat is the third largest town in Greenland, its population is 4,600, so you’ll need to plan ahead for your accommodation and transport. You can visit any time of year, but the summer months, during which the sun never fully sets, tend to be most popular (conversely, during winter there is little daylight). The town itself is a colorful sprawl of houses and buildings made to withstand the harsh winters, with the color of the building indicating its use (yellow for doctors and hospitals, red for teachers and churches, blue for fishermen and fish factories, etc.). After settling into my centrally located Airbnb, I went for a walk through town, finding my way to one of the western viewpoints over the bay. I enjoyed lunch at Cafe Iluliaq, which offers a range of different meals, with both locals and tourists seated outside to enjoy the summer sunshine. For dinner, Inuit Cafe offers perhaps some of the best food in Ilulissat, including a range of local specialties. You’ll also find a couple of supermarkets with a decent array of products, though keep in mind that Greenland imports almost everything except for fish, so prices are high and selection is limited. Note that everything closes quite early, even in summer (unless you happen to be invited to one of the local all-night parties). 

Icebergs in Disko Bay

Midnight colours in Disko Bay

That evening, I embarked on a previously booked icefjord boat tour, which turned out to be one of the highlights of the trip. The tours typically depart around 10pm to take advantage of the summer midnight sun. We glided among sunset-tinted icebergs, spotting numerous humpback whales putting on quite the display, flukes playfully raised and blowholes spouting above the sea. The sunset went on for hours after our return, soon turning into a bright dawn. 

The next day, I embarked on a kayaking excursion with Ilulissat Adventures around Disko Bay. They provide all the gear, including a drysuit—bring some warm wool layers to wear underneath. In general, layers are key to Greenland, as the average summer temperature in Greenland is about 10C (50F) and can fluctuate significantly. While some days were so warm I could wear a t-shirt, others necessitated protective layers against pelting rain and winds so strong I could barely breathe.  

Kayaking in Disko Bay

It felt truly spectacular to be on the water in close proximity to giant icebergs, and a good reminder of how small we are in the larger view. In a similar vein, the spectacular Ilulissat Isfjordscenter (a short walk from the town center), newly constructed and opened in 2021, is also worth a visit. Its unique architecture and informative exhibits are sure to occupy the better part of a couple of hours, and it’s also the start of a couple of short trails to reach the ice cap, a UNESCO World heritage site. Perhaps my favourite part of the whole trip, the Ilulissat Icefjord is at once breathtakingly beautiful, awe-inspiring, and humbling; it will leave you questioning humanity’s role and place on this planet. 

Walking from Ilulissat Isfjordscenter to the icefjord

The views and sounds are stunning: this giant, slow-moving glacier, witness to thousands of centuries past, passes slowly before you, iceberg-sized chunks breaking off and echoing, cracking and heaving, into the abyss. It’s at once both larger than life and disappearing before our very eyes: in recent years, the ice sheet has been melting at record levels. Second in size only to Antarctica, Greenland’s ice sheet contains 12% of the world’s glacier ice. Its melting is predicted to result in significant sea level rises worldwide that will change life as we know it over the next few generations. 

View of Disko Bay on a short hike from Ilulissat

A good place to continue philosophizing is always over great local food and wine. Koks is an excellent restaurant typically based in another Danish territory, the Faroe Islands. I had the privilege of dining there during my trip to the Faroe Islands a few years back. While Koks constructs a new home for their restaurant in the Faroes, they have established a summer residency in Ilimanaq, Greenland, accessible from Ilulissat via a 90 minute boat ride through even more icebergs. Reservations are recommended well in advance, and you’ll book the boat transfer separately through World of Greenland. Koks in Greenland does not disappoint, focusing on showcasing the best of what the area has to offer in ways that are both delicious and surprising. Afterwards, enjoy a magical sunset-hued ride back to Ilulissat at the end of the evening. 

A dish with wine pairing at Koks in Ilimanaq

The town of Ilimanaq, a 90 minute boat ride from Ilulissat

After a few nights in Ilulissat, I caught the local Arctic Umiaq ferry that takes both locals and tourists up and down Greenland’s western coast. I booked a cabin for the 36 hour journey down to Nuuk, Greenland’s capital; while expensive, it afforded a calm and private place to sleep and rest during the day. The ferry is a fun experience and special way to see Greenland, including some tiny coastal villages (some stops along the way required us to launch a dinghy to pick up the passengers and bring them aboard). It’s a basic ship with relatively simple food options (bring snacks and whatever else you might like aboard, including books, games, etc.). It’s typically too windy to be outside for more than a few minutes at a time, though you can disembark at some of the larger ports en route (notably Sisimiut, which was a nice place to stretch my legs and walk around for a couple of hours)—check first on the departure time before disembarking. 

The Arctic Umiaq ferry

The town of Kangaamiut seen from the ferry

Nuuk is worth a night or two to get a sense of life in Greenland’s capital and largest town, though it is decidedly less charming than Ilulissat. During my stay, the winds were too strong for most outdoor activities, and the standup paddleboard tour I’d booked was cancelled. This is not uncommon in Greenland, and travelling here during any time of year requires an open mind and flexibility. My flight from Nuuk back to Kangerlussuaq was repeatedly delayed and then cancelled due to the high winds, and I eventually arrived on another flight later that evening once the winds had temporarily relented. As it was after 6pm, nothing was open in Kangerlussuaq (no grocery stores, restaurants, etc., of which there are just a couple to begin with), so be sure to have food with you. I was personally saved by my Airbnb host’s instant ramen supply, for which I am eternally grateful. Kangerlussuaq is largely skippable except as a starting point for an ice sheet tour, a worthwhile experience to see a piece of our planet that may not be around for much longer.

Downtown Nuuk

Downtown Nuuk

Colourful residential buildings in Nuuk

Where to eat and drink

Cafe Iluliaq, Ilulissat

Inuit Cafe, Ilulissat

Koks, Ilimanaq

Killut Cafe, Nuuk

Daddy’s, Nuuk

Godthåb Bryghus, Nuuk

Sarfalik, Nuuk

Restaurant Charoen Porn, Nuuk

Kristinemut, Nuuk

Where to stay

Airbnb in central Ilulissat

Arctic Umiaq ferry (between Ilulissat and Nuuk)

Airbnb in Nuuk

Northern lights, frozen lakes and gastronomic delights: Swedish Lapland

Few experiences compare to the magic of watching the ever-shifting greens, purples, and pinks of the aurora borealis (or australis in the southern hemisphere) dancing above you in the night sky. While I was lucky enough to witness the aurora in Finland a few years back, I was eager for more. I spent several weeks in northern Sweden during the winter, getting to know remote northern towns and people, incorporating skiing, hiking, and great meals along the way. 

Flying over northern Sweden into Lapland

While the lights are active year round, they are best seen in the early fall or spring in the northern hemisphere (September-November or February-April) on a clear night between 65° and 72° North. Some of the most popular places for viewing include Alaska, Canada, Greenland, the Faroe Islands, Iceland, Norway, Sweden, and Finland. There is of course no guarantee, and sometimes the lights may appear for just a few minutes, while at others you may be lucky enough to see them for hours. Ideally, you’ll want to be outside of any urban areas to avoid light pollution. 

Ice skaters on the frozen lake near Puoltsa, Sweden

I flew to Kiruna in northern Sweden from Stockholm in early November and rented a car at the airport. The flight there was magical in itself, as we passed numerous frozen lakes and rivers snaking their way through the countryside. For the first few nights, I stayed at a cabin rented by a local family in the small village of Puoltsa overlooking a lake on which you can ice skate in winter. There are a few nearby walking trails, and on three nights, I saw the northern lights from right next to the cabin. It was an otherworldly experience to see the sun rise around 9am and set in the early afternoon, with many hours of a golden twilight both before and after. A few hours after it became fully dark, around 10pm, the lights made their appearance, ebbing and waning as they swirled through the sky. 

The aurora and stars viewed from my cabin [shot on iPhone]

Winter views of Kebnekaise, Sweden

Reindeer at Arctic Gourmet Cabin

From Puoltsa, you can drive to the end of the road at Nikkaluokta, from where a number of hiking trails start, including views of Kebnekaise, Sweden’s highest peak. Be sure to buy any supplies you may need before leaving Kiruna, as there are no markets in this area. Another place to stay is the Arctic Gourmet Cabin, run by a small family, featuring an outdoor hot tub and a wood-fired sauna. Over dinner one evening, I got to know a local couple who were treating themselves to a night out, as Johan Löfgren, our host and chef extraordinaire, served us a fantastic set of courses sourced locally. Standouts included reindeer roasted over an outdoor fire paired with mushrooms and a vegetable puree as well as moose with coffee cheese (a Swedish specialty) that would not have been out of place in a high-end restaurant. Afterwards, I stargazed from the hot tub, searching for a glimpse of the aurora.

Another evening, I stopped off for dinner at the nearby Icehotel in Jukkasjärvi, where I sampled Kalix roe (harvested from the freshwater fish vendace, found in local lakes) on rye bread and a poached, buttery-textured arctic char fillet. Many of the guests were staying at the hotel in rooms made entirely of ice (rebuilt every fall), a fun albeit pricey novelty. Just down the road, you can learn about the indigenous Sámi culture and go reindeer sledding at Nutti Sámi Siida.  

Gällivare, a village en route to Jokkmokk

Lake Vajkijaure near Jokkmokk, Sweden

Venturing south from Kiruna, I stayed for a couple of nights just north of Jokkmokk, a sizeable town with a few hotels and restaurants. I woke up each morning to walk along the frozen, snow-covered lake Vajkijaure bathed in various shades of blue, yellow and pink in frigid, face-freezing -15C temperatures. I picked up some Kalix and rainbow trout roes as well as reindeer at the Jokkmokk sausage and smokehouse, which also carries some local handicrafts. 

My cabin at the Arctic Bath Hotel, Sweden

From Jokkmokk, I continued towards my splurge of the trip: a night at the newly opened Arctic Bath hotel. Featuring just five overwater cabins and three larger land cabins, I felt any worried thoughts of meetings and to do lists dissipate as I fell into the calming rhythms of the place. I stayed at one of the water cabins and loved every minute. After checking in, I was gifted a bathing suit and robe and escorted along the pathway over snow-covered ice to my cabin, featuring a wraparound wooden deck. Inside, the cabin had an automatic wood fireplace that chirped soothingly as it dropped in extra pieces of wood until the cabin was heated to the desired temperature. I walked over to the main building for the afternoon’s complimentary introduction to the array of saunas, hot tubs, and arctic plunge pool included in each stay. The session was led by Ana, a transplant from Brasil who had me relaxed in no time as she demonstrated exercises to try in one of the lemongrass-scented wood-fired saunas. Together, we took turns absorbing the heat emanating from the slow crackle of the sauna followed by the intensely contrasting, skin-awakening sensation of jumping into the winter waters of the river on which the hotel lies (a motor keeps the waterhole swirling so that it does not freeze over). After a few rounds of this, I spent some time in the steam sauna, and finished in the outdoor hot tub overlooking the river. Having worked up an appetite, I made my way to the dining room for dinner, where I was treated to a creatively presented and stunningly tasty set of courses. The traditional Swedish dish of reindeer with lingonberries and mashed potatoes was both juicy and crunchy, and I asked for seconds of the in-house smoked butter and rye bread. I slept soundly that night wrapped in incredibly comfortable bedding, and I woke up the next morning ready for more adventure.

One of the saunas at the Arctic Bath Hotel

The arctic plunge at the Arctic Bath Hotel

The ever-present fall twilight in northern Sweden

Where to eat, drink, and stay

Jokkmokk sausage & smokehouse (gourmet market with local products)

Arctic Gourmet Cabin, Kaalasjärvi

Arctic Bath Hotel, Harads

Nearby is the not-to-be-missed Tree Hotel, designed by some of the same architects as the Arctic Bath Hotel, featuring a dozen unique cabins made of different materials. One resembles a bird’s nest; another, shaped as a flying saucer, looks ready for takeoff. While I didn’t get the chance to stay there, I hope to revisit it on a future trip.

UFO cabin at the Tree Hotel

Bird’s nest cabin at the Tree Hotel