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Greenland: among the giants

Greenland always loomed large on the maps I spent hours poring over during my childhood. This is partly due to its actual size (it’s the largest island in the world) and partly due to land mass closer to the poles appearing more vertically stretched on common map projections. One of the first fun facts I learned about Greenland is that the Vikings named it so to entice more settlers. In reality, the vast majority of Greenland (80%) is covered by an ice cap, and its 55,000 inhabitants live predominantly along its western coast. While Greenland is geographically part of North America, it is politically part of Denmark (and autonomous in a number of ways). 

Kangerlussuaq airport, Greenland

Kangerlussuaq airport, Greenland

Getting to Greenland requires some time and dedication, as the best way to reach it is via a nearly 5 hour flight from Copenhagen to Kangerlussuaq, a small town of about 500 inhabitants and the only airport in Greenland able to handle larger aircraft (originally built as a military base during World War II). Kangerlussuaq is a good jumping off point for visiting the polar ice cap (as a day trip, or more commonly an overnight camping trip), or for internal flights within Greenland. Note that the weather is notoriously fickle; delays and cancellations are not uncommon, so plan accordingly. Upon landing, I took a short flight to Ilulissat, a town further north on the western coast. There are no roads between towns in Greenland—just airplanes, boats, dog sleds, and snowmobiles. I booked all my flights directly (including the roundtrip from Copenhagen) via Air Greenland.

Colorful buildings, Ilulissat, Greenland

Colourful buildings in the town of Ilulissat

Street in Ilulissat, Greenland

Walking around Ilulissat

While Ilulissat is the third largest town in Greenland, its population is 4,600, so you’ll need to plan ahead for your accommodation and transport. You can visit any time of year, but the summer months, during which the sun never fully sets, tend to be most popular (conversely, during winter there is little daylight). The town itself is a colorful sprawl of houses and buildings made to withstand the harsh winters, with the color of the building indicating its use (yellow for doctors and hospitals, red for teachers and churches, blue for fishermen and fish factories, etc.). After settling into my centrally located Airbnb, I went for a walk through town, finding my way to one of the western viewpoints over the bay. I enjoyed lunch at Cafe Iluliaq, which offers a range of different meals, with both locals and tourists seated outside to enjoy the summer sunshine. For dinner, Inuit Cafe offers perhaps some of the best food in Ilulissat, including a range of local specialties. You’ll also find a couple of supermarkets with a decent array of products, though keep in mind that Greenland imports almost everything except for fish, so prices are high and selection is limited. Note that everything closes quite early, even in summer (unless you happen to be invited to one of the local all-night parties). 

Iceberg in Disko Bay, Greenland

Icebergs in Disko Bay

Midnight sun over icebergs, Disko Bay, Greenland

Midnight colours in Disko Bay

That evening, I embarked on a previously booked icefjord boat tour, which turned out to be one of the highlights of the trip. The tours typically depart around 10pm to take advantage of the summer midnight sun. We glided among sunset-tinted icebergs, spotting numerous humpback whales putting on quite the display, flukes playfully raised and blowholes spouting above the sea. The sunset went on for hours after our return, soon turning into a bright dawn. 

The next day, I embarked on a kayaking excursion with Ilulissat Adventures around Disko Bay. They provide all the gear, including a drysuit—bring some warm wool layers to wear underneath. In general, layers are key to Greenland, as the average summer temperature in Greenland is about 10C (50F) and can fluctuate significantly. While some days were so warm I could wear a t-shirt, others necessitated protective layers against pelting rain and winds so strong I could barely breathe.  

Kayaking in Disko Bay, Greenland

Kayaking in Disko Bay

It felt truly spectacular to be on the water in close proximity to giant icebergs, and a good reminder of how small we are in the larger view. In a similar vein, the spectacular Ilulissat Isfjordscenter (a short walk from the town center), newly constructed and opened in 2021, is also worth a visit. Its unique architecture and informative exhibits are sure to occupy the better part of a couple of hours, and it’s also the start of a couple of short trails to reach the ice cap, a UNESCO World heritage site. Perhaps my favourite part of the whole trip, the Ilulissat Icefjord is at once breathtakingly beautiful, awe-inspiring, and humbling; it will leave you questioning humanity’s role and place on this planet. 

Ice cap, Ilulissat, Greenland

Walking from Ilulissat Isfjordscenter to the icefjord

The views and sounds are stunning: this giant, slow-moving glacier, witness to thousands of centuries past, passes slowly before you, iceberg-sized chunks breaking off and echoing, cracking and heaving, into the abyss. It’s at once both larger than life and disappearing before our very eyes: in recent years, the ice sheet has been melting at record levels. Second in size only to Antarctica, Greenland’s ice sheet contains 12% of the world’s glacier ice. Its melting is predicted to result in significant sea level rises worldwide that will change life as we know it over the next few generations. 

View of icebergs in Disko Bay, Ilulissat, Greenland

View of Disko Bay on a short hike from Ilulissat

A good place to continue philosophizing is always over great local food and wine. Koks is an excellent restaurant typically based in another Danish territory, the Faroe Islands. I had the privilege of dining there during my trip to the Faroe Islands a few years back. While Koks constructs a new home for their restaurant in the Faroes, they have established a summer residency in Ilimanaq, Greenland, accessible from Ilulissat via a 90 minute boat ride through even more icebergs. Reservations are recommended well in advance, and you’ll book the boat transfer separately through World of Greenland. Koks in Greenland does not disappoint, focusing on showcasing the best of what the area has to offer in ways that are both delicious and surprising. Afterwards, enjoy a magical sunset-hued ride back to Ilulissat at the end of the evening. 

Dinner at Koks Restaurant, Ilimanaq, Greenland

A dish with wine pairing at Koks in Ilimanaq

Ilimanaq, Greenland

The town of Ilimanaq, a 90 minute boat ride from Ilulissat

After a few nights in Ilulissat, I caught the local Arctic Umiaq ferry that takes both locals and tourists up and down Greenland’s western coast. I booked a cabin for the 36 hour journey down to Nuuk, Greenland’s capital; while expensive, it afforded a calm and private place to sleep and rest during the day. The ferry is a fun experience and special way to see Greenland, including some tiny coastal villages (some stops along the way required us to launch a dinghy to pick up the passengers and bring them aboard). It’s a basic ship with relatively simple food options (bring snacks and whatever else you might like aboard, including books, games, etc.). It’s typically too windy to be outside for more than a few minutes at a time, though you can disembark at some of the larger ports en route (notably Sisimiut, which was a nice place to stretch my legs and walk around for a couple of hours)—check first on the departure time before disembarking. 

Arctic Umiaq ferry, Greenland

The Arctic Umiaq ferry

Kangaamiut, Greenland

The town of Kangaamiut seen from the ferry

Nuuk is worth a night or two to get a sense of life in Greenland’s capital and largest town, though it is decidedly less charming than Ilulissat. During my stay, the winds were too strong for most outdoor activities, and the standup paddleboard tour I’d booked was cancelled. This is not uncommon in Greenland, and travelling here during any time of year requires an open mind and flexibility. My flight from Nuuk back to Kangerlussuaq was repeatedly delayed and then cancelled due to the high winds, and I eventually arrived on another flight later that evening once the winds had temporarily relented. As it was after 6pm, nothing was open in Kangerlussuaq (no grocery stores, restaurants, etc., of which there are just a couple to begin with), so be sure to have food with you. I was personally saved by my Airbnb host’s instant ramen supply, for which I am eternally grateful. Kangerlussuaq is largely skippable except as a starting point for an ice sheet tour, a worthwhile experience to see a piece of our planet that may not be around for much longer.

Nuuk, Greenland

Downtown Nuuk

Nuuk, Greenland

Downtown Nuuk

Viewpoint in Nuuk, Greenland

Colourful residential buildings in Nuuk

Where to eat and drink

Cafe Iluliaq, Ilulissat

Inuit Cafe, Ilulissat

Koks, Ilimanaq

Killut Cafe, Nuuk

Daddy’s, Nuuk

Godthåb Bryghus, Nuuk

Sarfalik, Nuuk

Restaurant Charoen Porn, Nuuk

Kristinemut, Nuuk

Where to stay

Airbnb in central Ilulissat

Arctic Umiaq ferry (between Ilulissat and Nuuk)

Airbnb in Nuuk

Winter escapes: Banff National Park, Alberta, Canada

As we drove, the peaks of the surrounding snow-capped mountains gradually came into view, reflecting the deep pink and violet hues of a new day. The excitement that comes with a clear day and the promise of several inches of fresh overnight powder filled the car, and after we parked at the Lake Louise ski resort, we donned our remaining ski gear with a sense of urgency. Of course, we were not the only ones with these thoughts, and the lines for both the gondola and Glacier Express chair snaked with a multitude of colourful snow jackets and chatter. 

Skiing at Lake Louise

Skiing at Lake Louise

But the mountain has room for everyone, and we skied all morning in sheer glee, finding pockets of powder under the t-bar near the peak and lapping our favorite runs with breathless, leg-burning zest. Eventually, when our quad muscles could take no more, we skied over to the Whitehorn Bistro (located at 6700’, or 2042m, above sea level) to enjoy inside-warming hot chocolate (spiked if that’s how you like it) and fondue served with a range of vegetables and potatoes. It’s for days like this that I tolerate winter.

One of many ice sculptures at Lake Louise

One of many ice sculptures at Lake Louise

Ice skating on Lake Louise

Ice skating on Lake Louise

Skiing isn’t the only reason to come to Lake Louise, a small town nestled in Banff National Park in the Canadian Rockies, approximately a two-hour drive from Calgary International airport. Of the many winter activities on offer, you can go mushing with Snowy Owl dog sled tours, ice skating on Lake Louise, snowshoeing any of the nearby trails, checking out the ice sculptures in front of the Fairmont Chateau, or simply sightseeing in nearby places like the stunning Abraham Lake, where methane bubbles form when the lake freezes over in the early winter. The road there is equally beautiful, winding by Peyto Lake and the Waterfowl Lakes, surrounded by striking, snow-clad peaks. Nature at its wild best has a real way of reminding us how small we are.

Waterfowl Lakes, Banff National Park

Waterfowl Lakes, Banff National Park

Walking across Abraham Lake

Walking across Abraham Lake

Abraham Lake

Abraham Lake

You’ll also find world-class wine lists and top-notch food: The Post Hotel & Spa as well as the Fairmont Chateau feature both higher-end and less expensive dining options. We had fantastic burgers at the Outpost Pub at the The Post Hotel and delicious cocktails and light bites at the Lakeview Lounge at the Fairmont Chateau, with unrivaled views of the lake and surrounding mountains through the enormous arched windows. We stayed at the Lake Louise Inn, which features spacious rooms and a common area with a large pool and three hot tubs that are the perfect spot to massage your muscles after skiing all day. There are also free shuttles directly to the base of the mountain. Bill Peyto’s Cafe, at the nearby HI Lake Louise hostel, is also walking distance and features large portions across a fairly eclectic menu. 

Lake Louise itself is relatively sleepy, so if you’re looking for more of a nightlife scene, stay in the town of Banff, approximately a 40 minute drive from Lake Louise. You’ll find a range of restaurant options and bars to suit most tastes, as well as the Banff Upper hot springs, to which you’ll receive free admission vouchers if you flash your Ikon pass at the SkiBig3 adventure hub on Banff Ave in town. Our favourite spot for tasty, inventive cocktails and delicious small plates is Block Kitchen + Bar, and a short stroll will bring you to the Banff Ave Brewing Co for a selection of local beers while a hockey match (you are in Canada, after all) plays in the background. Reasonably priced accommodation with hot tubs includes Inns of Banff, or Hidden Ridge Resort, a short drive or shuttle ride from the town center. And of course, the Banff Sunshine ski resort is just outside of town, a slightly flatter but still challenging mountain that’s a great alternative to Lake Louise. Both mountains are currently on the Mountain Collective and Ikon passes, so a ski vacation here need not break the bank. 

The view at Banff Sunshine ski resort

The view at Banff Sunshine ski resort

Should you find yourself back in Calgary with some time before your flight, we thoroughly enjoyed the barbecue and whiskey selection at Hayden Block Smoke & Whiskey in the Hillhurst area. The pork ribs and brisket, washed down by a rye, are a fitting end to an adventure-filled trip to this winter wonderland. 

Where to eat & drink

Whitehorn Bistro, Lake Louise Ski Resort, Lake Louise

Outpost Pub (and main restaurant), The Post Hotel & Spa, Lake Louise

Lakeview Lounge, Fairmont hotel, Lake Louise

Bill Peyto’s Cafe, Lake Louise

Block Kitchen + Bar, Banff

Banff Ave Brewing Co, Banff

Hayden Block Smoke & Whiskey, Calgary

Where to stay

Lake Louise Inn, Lake Louise

The Post Hotel & Spa, Lake Louise

Fairmont Chateau, Lake Louise

Inns of Banff, Banff

Hidden Ridge Resort, Banff