Portugal — Travel writing — Vanessa the Nomad

“Where is Cape Verde?,” you might ask, and you would not be alone. Located a few hundred miles off the coast of Senegal, this set of volcanically formed islands is on few travellers’ radars. The country is also relatively hard to reach - direct flights run from either Lisbon or Ponta Delgada in the Azores, though fares are typically priced very reasonably. Geologically similar to the Azores, Cape Verde also has a Portuguese colonial history, achieving independence in 1975. Portuguese is spoken, as is Creole, with occasional English.

But this is a very different place than the Azores. You are no longer in Europe, but in Africa. Upon landing at Praia, I encountered a set of taxis waiting in front of the airport, charging a hefty 1,000 escudos ($10) for the 5-7 minute drive into the city. I declined, as I would have a night in Praia at the end of my trip, and opted to wait the four hours before my next internal flight at the airport cafe.

I was headed to São Vicente, the home of famed singer Cesária Évora, and the musical and cultural capital of the islands. Binter CV Airlines makes the trip, and on approach to São Vicente, a small church dramatically perched on rocky cliffs appears off the left side of the plane as you touch down 50 minutes later. I’d rented a car from Dyrk, and Emerson, the nephew of the owner, met me at the small airport. He was kind enough to stay with me as we sought to locate Georgette Guesthouse, on the fifth floor of a relatively modern apartment building overlooking the man-made but incredibly striking Laginha beach. The guesthouse’s stunning balcony, spacious rooms and hearty breakfast made it the perfect place to stay in Mindelo.

View of Laginha beach from Georgette’s guesthouse in Mindelo

After settling in, I went for a quick dip in the ocean, eyeing the island of Santo Antão in the distance, where I would head the following day. But first, food. I had a delicious octopus dish at Kalimba beach club, located directly on the beach, with incredibly friendly staff, followed by my first time trying percebes (goose neck barnacles, which are notoriously difficult and dangerous to gather) at Casa Cafe Mindelo. Percebes taste of the sea, with a texture similar to soft clams. Restaurants in Mindelo frequently feature live music from local bands and artists, and music videos of Cape Verdean artists looped for hours in the city’s cafes. The vibe is vibrant and energised in the most laid back way, so that time flows fluidly, and nothing is ever rushed. This is island life, after all.

The next morning, I took the ferry (along with my rental car) to Santo Antão, perhaps the most beautiful of the three islands I visited on this trip. The ferry arrives in Porto Novo, which is unremarkable except as a place to get supplies at a local mini-market, or for a fish dinner at the Italian-run Ristorante La Lampara. Take the interior road, a great source of pride for Cape Verdeans, which was hand-paved in granite stones several decades ago over the course of several years to reach Ponta do Sol at the other end. The vistas en route are simply otherworldly: fast-moving fog enveloping lush greenery, steep mountain passes, and locals going about their daily lives watching you as you drive by. I found myself gasping aloud in my car at the sheer beauty. There are also aluguers, or local collective minivans, that drive these routes, but I preferred to have my own car to maintain the freedom to stop when I wanted. As I encountered few other cars along the route, frequent stops for breathtaking views and photos were easy. On a couple occasions, locals approached me for a ride to the next village, and I happily obliged. Even as a solo female traveller, I never felt unsafe - ridesharing is simply a part of the culture, and it led to several interesting conversations and encounters. My Portuguese is basic, but I gave a ride to a papaya grower going to market who left me one as a gift, a schoolgirl who spoke fluent French and was curious about what I was doing in her country, and an elderly gentleman who was going to visit family in a neighbouring town. Yes, I did receive my fair share of stares most everywhere I went, but I ascribe that to the novelty of a solo female traveller in these parts.

View of Covo, the interior crater on Santo Antão

Once you reach Ponta do Sol, I highly recommend walking the road to Fontainhas (you reach it by heading left after the highest church in town; ask any of the locals), or driving if you’ve got a 4x4. The vistas are striking, and Fontainhas is something of its own world. I made the trek a couple of hours before sunset, and the colour palette was quite unlike anything I’d seen before. As with most places in Cape Verde, I encountered fewer than five other tourists en route.

I took the easier (and sometimes paved, thanks to a recent collaboration with an Italian construction company) coastal road to return to Porto Novo, spending the night en route at an Airbnb near Paul, in the village of Pombas. In the waning hours of the afternoon, I strolled by Senhor Ildo’s grog (a local sugarcane liquor) distillery to sample some of the local products and learn about how they are made. In the morning, a sausage and egg cachupa (the national dish, typically a slow-cooked stew of various meats and vegetables) took some time but was a tasty base for the day at Casa Maracuja.

A grog distillery near Paul, Santo Antão

Cachupa at Chez Loutcha, Mindelo, São Vicente

Upon my return to Sao Vicente, I decided to check out Salamansa, a small fishing village on the island’s north coast made famous by a Cesária Évora song by the same name. There’s a small creperie right on the beach, and you can hire kitesurfing equipment should you find yourself there in winter months with higher winds. Baia das Gatas was largely skippable, but driving further east, with dramatic views en route, you’ll reach the rockier stretches of Calhau, where the road ends. Further south lies the sprawling sandy expanse of São Pedro, perhaps the nicest beach on the island. Circle back to Mindelo for dinner at Chez Loutcha (be sure to try the cachupa and the canja de galinha, a hearty take on chicken soup) followed by a nightcap at the Clube Nautico.

The road between Salamansa and Calhau, São Vicente, Cape Verde

On my final day, after flying back to Praia, I chose to explore the capital on foot from my base at my Airbnb in Plateau. Plateau is pleasant enough, and you can walk through the local market as well as by the Presidential Palace. But I would not recommend walking on foot into the central part of town from here: this was the first and only time I felt unsafe in the country, as I encountered solo or pairs of males who made unpleasant comments as I passed, and the general state of affairs was very run-down. I made it on foot to the local monument to Pope John Paul II, who visited the country in 1990, and in whose honour there is both a cross and a statue that serves as something of a local gathering place for all. Although I am not personally religious, visiting this site was personally touching given the Pope was Polish, and I felt a common ground that unites people around the world, despite their many differences. Cape Verde is not an easy place to visit, but it is all the more rewarding for that very reason.

Packing list:

Hiking clothes & shoes
Rain jacket
Mosquito repellent
Bathing suit
Sunscreen

Where to stay:

Georgette Guesthouse, Mindelo, Sao Vicente

Paul Airbnb, Santo Antao

Praia Airbnb, Santiago

Where to eat and drink:

Kalimba beach club, Mindelo, Sao Vicente

Casa Cafe Mindelo, Mindelo, Sao Vicente

Chez Loutcha, Mindelo, Sao Vicente

Bar Creperie Chez Zoe, Salamansa, Sao Vicente

Ristorante La Lampara, Porto Novo, Santo Antao

Casa Maracuja, Paul, Santo Antao

Nice Kriola, Praia, Santiago

With Delta offering nonstop flights (May-September only) from JFK to Ponta Delgada, now is the time to travel to the Azores, a set of nine volcanic islands in the middle of the Atlantic, some 1,000 miles west of mainland Portugal. Featuring a temperate climate, the isles are rarely particularly hot or cold, and they receive a fair amount of rain, typically in shorter, passing bursts, mostly in the mountainous interiors. Each island was formed at a different point in history, leading to dramatically different landscapes. Pico, the youngest island, is nearly all black, with bright green spots of grapevines pushing through the volcanic soil. São Miguel, the largest island, was formed over the course of millions of years, and features impossibly blue and green crater lakes and lush greenery.

The view from Miradouro da Grota do Inferno

We spent three days on São Miguel (four is probably the right amount of time), renting a car (a must to get to see the island) and frequently stopping en route. One of the highlights of any visits is the short walk up to Miradouro da Grota do Inferno, which offers a fantastic vantage point over the village of Sete Cidades and the surrounding blue and green crater lakes. Local legend has it that a princess fell in love with a shepherd boy, and the King forbade their marriage. They met one last time to embrace and cry, and as the princess’s eyes were green and the boy’s eyes were blue, the two lakes formed in those colours.

Sizzling limpets (lapas) at Restaurante Gazcidla, Mosteiros

From there, we checked out the natural thermal pools by the ocean’s edge at Ponta da Ferraria. Wear close-toed shoes to hike across the sharp lava fields to the small natural pools that combine the cool ocean with the natural heat from the sulfurous hot springs. Afterwards, enjoy a lunch or dinner of the day’s catch of fresh fish and sizzling limpets (“lapas”) covered in garlic butter and lemon at Restaurante Gazcidla in nearby Mosteiros. The black sand beach here makes the ocean more accessible for a quick swim in the summertime.

The northern coast has some of the nicest beaches in São Miguel. Perhaps my favourite is the surfer haven of Praia do Areal de Santa Bárbara, where you will find a surf center and various options for rentals and lessons, as well as the oceanside Tuká Tulá bar and restaurant (reservations recommended for dinner), featuring some of the best limpets of the trip as well as cocktails with local gin and rum. The beach itself is a long stretch of black sand with multiple layers of breaking waves, perfect for swimming, surfing or bodyboarding. Afterwards, enjoy a steak dinner (the local meat is known for its rich flavour) at the Restaurante da Associação Agrícola de São Miguel, or stop for fresh fish and shellfish at Alabote Restaurante in coastally scenic Ribeira Grande. Nearby, you can also sample some of the local liqueurs (passionfruit is a particular favourite) at Ezequiel Moreira Silva & Filhos or Mulher de Capote in Ribeira Grande.

Perhaps the most interesting place to visit on São Miguel is Furnas, an area of high thermal activity, with several natural hot spring pools as well as sulfurous, steamy fissures. One of the typical dishes of the Azores, cozido das furnas, is made here. The dish is a meat and vegetable stew that is placed a few feet underground and cooked by the natural heat in the area. One of the best places to try it (and to stay the night) is the Terra Nostra Garden hotel, which offers it a la carte or as part of a 3-course menu at its beautiful restaurant overlooking the hotel gardens. By dining at the restaurant, you’ll also receive passes for free entrance to the hotel’s park and hot springs (normally a cost of 8 EUR/person), which are a great place to spend the afternoon.

Afterwards, don’t miss the view from Miradouro do Pico do Ferro, a vantage point with a view of the Furnas lake and the place where the restaurants dig in their cozido pots (to go there directly, arrive by 12pm, and be prepared to pay a few euros a person to gain access to the grounds).

To cool off, we went for a swim at the Salto do Cabrito, an impossibly scenic waterfall that has carved its path through the surrounding rock. Don’t be afraid to drive all the way down the road, which can be a bit steep, to shorten your path to the falls, and bring water shoes, as getting into the falls is rocky and slippery. Not swimmable, but also beautiful, are the waterfalls at the Parque Natural dos Caldeirões, from where you can do numerous hikes as well as abseiling and canyoning. Follow it with a free introduction and sampling of the tea at the Porto Formoso tea factory along the north coast, and stop off at the Miradouro de Santa Iria for sweeping views of the northern coastline.

Pineapples growing on the Arruda plantation

Ponta Delgada, the Azores’ largest town, has a relatively walkable center, but is otherwise not particularly pedestrian friendly, and it has a severe parking shortage. We dropped by O rei dos queijos to try (and buy) some Azorean cheeses and bolos, the local bread, and checked out the fruits and vegetables for sale at the Mercado da Graça next door. On the outskirts of town, Ananases A Arruda is a pineapple plantation (an important local product) where you can view the different stages of pineapple farming and sample them in various formats at the onsite cafe.

We also visited two other islands, Faial and Pico. The best way to reach either is to fly via Azores Airlines (50 minutes), taking the ferry to get between Faial and Pico (30 minutes). Faial’s highlight is probably the Praia Do Almoxarife, from which on a clear morning you can clearly see Pico mountain, Portugal’s highest peak, on the neighbouring island of the same name. Also worth a visit is the Caldeira do Cabeço Gordo, from which you can do a number of different hikes across the island, as well as the Centro de Interpretação do Vulcão dos Capelinhos, from where you can see the destruction caused by the 1957-58 eruption of the Capelinhos volcano and the stunning surrounding landscape. For lunch, we had a delicious octopus salad and Portuguese sparkling wine at Praya, overlooking the Praia do Almoxarife. For dinner, I highly recommend Restaurante Canto da Doca in Horta, where you receive a hot slab of volcanic stone together with a selection of raw seafoods and meats, and you proceed to cook your own dinner to your liking.

Praia do Almoxarife, Faial, with Pico obscured by clouds in the background

Cooking our own seafood and meats on a volcanic stone at Restaurante Canto da Doca, Horta, Faial

But Pico is the real stunner here, dark and dramatic, where more acidic, typically white wine is made from the grapevines growing in the volcanic soil beneath the looming peak of Pico (tastings are available at the Cooperativa in Madalena). The mountain is hikeable, though ideally requires starting in the middle of the night in order to reach the summit by sunrise. Numerous agencies and guides on the island offer the trip, and you get a t-shirt to commemorate the accomplishment. Also well worth a visit is the Gruta das Torres (reservations recommended), where over the course of an hour, a guide took us through a few hundred metres of Europe’s longest lava tube, a fascinating experience. Afterwards, we enjoyed lunch with a view at the modern Cella Bar just north of Madalena. Don’t miss the octopus salad, and the pork ribs were delicious. It can get windy, so bring a jacket. It was so good, we found ourselves back for dinner, during which we discussed returning again next year. Go before the Azores get more of the attention they deserve.

Exiting the Gruta das Torres lava tube on Pico

A selection of local cheeses al fresco at Cella Bar on Pico

Packing list:

Rain jacket
Mosquito repellent
Bathing suit (bring an old one that you don’t mind getting discoloured from the sulfur in the hot springs)
Hiking shoes
Water shoes

Where to stay:

Praia de Santos Exclusive Guesthouse, Ponta Delgada, São Miguel

Hotel Verde Mar & Spa, Riberia Grande, São Miguel

Terra Nostra Garden hotel, Furnas, São Miguel

Hotel do Canal, Horta, Faial

Pocinho Bay, Pico

Where to eat:

Tuká Tulá bar and restaurant, Ribeira Grande, São Miguel

Restaurante da Associação Agrícola de São Miguel, Ribeira Grande, São Miguel

Alabote, Ribeira Grande, São Miguel

Restaurante Gazcidla, Mosteiros, São Miguel

Terra Nostra Garden hotel, Furnas, São Miguel