Caves

The Azores: lush, dramatic and unspoilt

September 15, 2019

With Delta offering nonstop flights (May-September only) from JFK to Ponta Delgada, now is the time to travel to the Azores, a set of nine volcanic islands in the middle of the Atlantic, some 1,000 miles west of mainland Portugal. Featuring a temperate climate, the isles are rarely particularly hot or cold, and they receive a fair amount of rain, typically in shorter, passing bursts, mostly in the mountainous interiors. Each island was formed at a different point in history, leading to dramatically different landscapes. Pico, the youngest island, is nearly all black, with bright green spots of grapevines pushing through the volcanic soil. São Miguel, the largest island, was formed over the course of millions of years, and features impossibly blue and green crater lakes and lush greenery.

The view from Miradouro da Grota do Inferno

We spent three days on São Miguel (four is probably the right amount of time), renting a car (a must to get to see the island) and frequently stopping en route. One of the highlights of any visits is the short walk up to Miradouro da Grota do Inferno, which offers a fantastic vantage point over the village of Sete Cidades and the surrounding blue and green crater lakes. Local legend has it that a princess fell in love with a shepherd boy, and the King forbade their marriage. They met one last time to embrace and cry, and as the princess’s eyes were green and the boy’s eyes were blue, the two lakes formed in those colours.

Sizzling limpets (lapas) at Restaurante Gazcidla, Mosteiros

From there, we checked out the natural thermal pools by the ocean’s edge at Ponta da Ferraria. Wear close-toed shoes to hike across the sharp lava fields to the small natural pools that combine the cool ocean with the natural heat from the sulfurous hot springs. Afterwards, enjoy a lunch or dinner of the day’s catch of fresh fish and sizzling limpets (“lapas”) covered in garlic butter and lemon at Restaurante Gazcidla in nearby Mosteiros. The black sand beach here makes the ocean more accessible for a quick swim in the summertime.

The northern coast has some of the nicest beaches in São Miguel. Perhaps my favourite is the surfer haven of Praia do Areal de Santa Bárbara, where you will find a surf center and various options for rentals and lessons, as well as the oceanside Tuká Tulá bar and restaurant (reservations recommended for dinner), featuring some of the best limpets of the trip as well as cocktails with local gin and rum. The beach itself is a long stretch of black sand with multiple layers of breaking waves, perfect for swimming, surfing or bodyboarding. Afterwards, enjoy a steak dinner (the local meat is known for its rich flavour) at the Restaurante da Associação Agrícola de São Miguel, or stop for fresh fish and shellfish at Alabote Restaurante in coastally scenic Ribeira Grande. Nearby, you can also sample some of the local liqueurs (passionfruit is a particular favourite) at Ezequiel Moreira Silva & Filhos or Mulher de Capote in Ribeira Grande.

Perhaps the most interesting place to visit on São Miguel is Furnas, an area of high thermal activity, with several natural hot spring pools as well as sulfurous, steamy fissures. One of the typical dishes of the Azores, cozido das furnas, is made here. The dish is a meat and vegetable stew that is placed a few feet underground and cooked by the natural heat in the area. One of the best places to try it (and to stay the night) is the Terra Nostra Garden hotel, which offers it a la carte or as part of a 3-course menu at its beautiful restaurant overlooking the hotel gardens. By dining at the restaurant, you’ll also receive passes for free entrance to the hotel’s park and hot springs (normally a cost of 8 EUR/person), which are a great place to spend the afternoon.

Afterwards, don’t miss the view from Miradouro do Pico do Ferro, a vantage point with a view of the Furnas lake and the place where the restaurants dig in their cozido pots (to go there directly, arrive by 12pm, and be prepared to pay a few euros a person to gain access to the grounds).

To cool off, we went for a swim at the Salto do Cabrito, an impossibly scenic waterfall that has carved its path through the surrounding rock. Don’t be afraid to drive all the way down the road, which can be a bit steep, to shorten your path to the falls, and bring water shoes, as getting into the falls is rocky and slippery. Not swimmable, but also beautiful, are the waterfalls at the Parque Natural dos Caldeirões, from where you can do numerous hikes as well as abseiling and canyoning. Follow it with a free introduction and sampling of the tea at the Porto Formoso tea factory along the north coast, and stop off at the Miradouro de Santa Iria for sweeping views of the northern coastline.

Pineapples growing on the Arruda plantation

Ponta Delgada, the Azores’ largest town, has a relatively walkable center, but is otherwise not particularly pedestrian friendly, and it has a severe parking shortage. We dropped by O rei dos queijos to try (and buy) some Azorean cheeses and bolos, the local bread, and checked out the fruits and vegetables for sale at the Mercado da Graça next door. On the outskirts of town, Ananases A Arruda is a pineapple plantation (an important local product) where you can view the different stages of pineapple farming and sample them in various formats at the onsite cafe.

We also visited two other islands, Faial and Pico. The best way to reach either is to fly via Azores Airlines (50 minutes), taking the ferry to get between Faial and Pico (30 minutes). Faial’s highlight is probably the Praia Do Almoxarife, from which on a clear morning you can clearly see Pico mountain, Portugal’s highest peak, on the neighbouring island of the same name. Also worth a visit is the Caldeira do Cabeço Gordo, from which you can do a number of different hikes across the island, as well as the Centro de Interpretação do Vulcão dos Capelinhos, from where you can see the destruction caused by the 1957-58 eruption of the Capelinhos volcano and the stunning surrounding landscape. For lunch, we had a delicious octopus salad and Portuguese sparkling wine at Praya, overlooking the Praia do Almoxarife. For dinner, I highly recommend Restaurante Canto da Doca in Horta, where you receive a hot slab of volcanic stone together with a selection of raw seafoods and meats, and you proceed to cook your own dinner to your liking.

Praia do Almoxarife, Faial, with Pico obscured by clouds in the background

Cooking our own seafood and meats on a volcanic stone at Restaurante Canto da Doca, Horta, Faial

But Pico is the real stunner here, dark and dramatic, where more acidic, typically white wine is made from the grapevines growing in the volcanic soil beneath the looming peak of Pico (tastings are available at the Cooperativa in Madalena). The mountain is hikeable, though ideally requires starting in the middle of the night in order to reach the summit by sunrise. Numerous agencies and guides on the island offer the trip, and you get a t-shirt to commemorate the accomplishment. Also well worth a visit is the Gruta das Torres (reservations recommended), where over the course of an hour, a guide took us through a few hundred metres of Europe’s longest lava tube, a fascinating experience. Afterwards, we enjoyed lunch with a view at the modern Cella Bar just north of Madalena. Don’t miss the octopus salad, and the pork ribs were delicious. It can get windy, so bring a jacket. It was so good, we found ourselves back for dinner, during which we discussed returning again next year. Go before the Azores get more of the attention they deserve.

Exiting the Gruta das Torres lava tube on Pico

A selection of local cheeses al fresco at Cella Bar on Pico

Packing list:

Rain jacket
Mosquito repellent
Bathing suit (bring an old one that you don’t mind getting discoloured from the sulfur in the hot springs)
Hiking shoes
Water shoes

Where to stay:

Praia de Santos Exclusive Guesthouse, Ponta Delgada, São Miguel

Hotel Verde Mar & Spa, Riberia Grande, São Miguel

Terra Nostra Garden hotel, Furnas, São Miguel

Hotel do Canal, Horta, Faial

Pocinho Bay, Pico

Where to eat:

Tuká Tulá bar and restaurant, Ribeira Grande, São Miguel

Restaurante da Associação Agrícola de São Miguel, Ribeira Grande, São Miguel

Alabote, Ribeira Grande, São Miguel

Restaurante Gazcidla, Mosteiros, São Miguel

Terra Nostra Garden hotel, Furnas, São Miguel

Praya, Faial

Restaurante Canto da Doca, Faial

Cella Bar, Pico

New Zealand: North and South Islands in 2 weeks

October 23, 2018

Back in college, I used to think people who studied abroad in New Zealand were silly. Why spend time in a place where the spoken language was English? I was much much better off learning French language and customs living with my 9-person host family in Rennes or picking up on Greek through its rich music during my homestay in Larissa. New Zealand was a waste of time. Or so I thought. Little did I know it would turn out to be perhaps the most beautiful country I would visit, and it would hit me so hard I would fantasize about finding excuses to go back, spend more time there, and perhaps even live there. Turns out I was the silly one for dismissing it so quickly.

New Zealand is by far one the most ambitious trips I’ve planned—two weeks through both the North and South Islands, covering 11 of the country’s 16 provinces (roughly 3000 km in total), is likely crazy to most, but it was all the time I had. I am already plotting my next trip back.

I flew from NYC to Auckland roundtrip via LA on American Airlines (at a cost of $0, thanks to my Chase Sapphire Reserve miles!). I stayed only at Airbnbs throughout the trip - in this case a cheaper option, and it gave me the opportunity to meet so many people along the way.

Day 1: Auckland

I landed in the morning in Auckland and rented a one-way car (return in to Christchurch) from Apex rentals, which included the one-way ferry from Wellington to Picton and hence had the best price by far. The day’s plan originally included an ambitious idea of going to Waiheke island to check out its famed beaches, vineyards and olive oil, but I ended up taking it easy in Auckland instead, saving Waiheke for next time. I first explored the Mission Bay waterfront area, getting brunch and enjoying ice cream while walking along the beach. It’s got a friendly, local neighbourhood vibe. After parking in South-central Auckland, I walked up along Queen St and stopped at the Auckland Art Museum, checking out Yayoi Kusama’s obliteration room—a fun, interactive experience. The museum is really well done, with art ranging from Maori to modern, and an easy place to while away a few hours. I made my way to the Downtown Ferry terminal and took the ferry over to Devonport, from where I walked east along the seaside taking photos and enjoying the ocean breeze. I stopped in for a drink at the bar at Devon on the Wharf before hopping a ferry back, enjoying views of downtown Auckland, where I indulged in some wine and oysters and chatted with the French servers at Shucker Brothers. Dinner was at Soul Bar + Bistro, one of the few downtown restaurants open at the end of December, as most of the city clears out on holiday. Exhausted, I made my way to my Airbnb and collapsed.

Yayoi Kusama’s Obliteration Room at the Auckland Art Museum — Yayoi Kusama’s *Obliteration Room* at the Auckland Art Museum

Day 2: Waitomo & Rotorua

Around 7am I hit the road and headed to Glowing Adventures for their Waitomo cave photography tour. They supply clothes as you get both wet and dirty during the tour, and it’s more involved and feels less touristy than other tours, as there are no pre-built pathways, handrails, installed lights, etc.—the caves have been left unmodified. Other tours include boat rides, which this one did not, but you do walk through some water and see some eels. The experience of seeing the light blue glow of the worms in the otherwise dark cave was otherworldly and unforgettable, and I would do it again in a heartbeat. Afterwards, you can shower, change, and enjoy a cup of tea and some cookies before moving on. In the afternoon, a fun and windy road took me to Wai-o-tapu Thermal Wonderland, which truly lives up to the name. The champagne pool, with its smoking hues of bright orange and green, is a must-see on any New Zealand itinerary. The whole walk is spectacular, worth a good couple of hours. And the gift shop is a fun place to get a mud mask (or kiwi or manuka honey, if you prefer) for later in the evening. Finally, I checked out the Rotorua Thursday night market, a crowded but fun affair, before heading to my Airbnb by Lake Taupo.

Squeezing into tight spaces in the Waitomo caves

Champagne pool at Wai-o-tapu Thermal Wonderland

Day 3: Lake Taupo & surrounds

While I was scheduled to do the Tongariro Alpine Crossing, one of the North Island’s highlights, a one-way 20km hike through alpine terrain, very high winds prevented this from happening. Instead, I hiked between Kinloch Beach and Kawakawa Bay, checked out the Huka Honey Farm, and did a thrilling and wet jet boat ride by Huka Falls (apparently the most visited attraction in the country, though I wouldn’t necessarily include it in my highlights). I stopped in to The Merchant of Lake Taupo to purchase some local products, including wine and car snacks. In the evening, I headed to a fantastic Airbnb in Taihape, bringing me a bit closer to Wellington for the next day’s crossing to the South Island. Fiona was an exceptionally kind host, and her homemade breakfast will warm any weary traveller’s stomach and heart.

Day 4: Wellington

I drove to Wellington in the morning, checking out the views of the city from the Mt Victoria viewpoint. After parking downtown, I enjoyed some local seafood at Shed5, from which I spotted a sailboat with a beautiful dalmation and a sign advertising sails in the harbor to see local penguins. I couldn’t resist, and soon found myself on a fantastic afternoon catamaran trip with Megisti Sailing Charters and a dozen or so other guests. While we weren’t lucky enough to spot penguins, dangling my feet over the side of the catamaran while sipping wine and enjoying the views of Wellington and surrounds was a pretty decadent experience. Before leaving town, I feasted on crab and more seafood at the Crab Shack, tried some local wines at the great little Noble Rot wine bar, picked up some Kapiti cheeses from a market nearby, and wandered around the surrounding area, which had a bit of a Haight-Ashbury feel to it. I took the 18:30 car ferry from Wellington to Picton on the South Island, arriving a few hours later, and leaving me to drive to my Airbnb in Cable Bay at night (not something I would recommend if you can spare an extra day in the Picton area). On the plus side, my Airbnb in Cable Bay was stunning, with views over the bay and free kayaks available to take out for a ride (highly recommended).

Day 5: Cable Bay and start of the South Island

This was one of my most relaxing days, largely spent kayaking around Cable Bay, getting brunch outside at Cable Bay Cafe up the road from the Airbnb, and tasting wines at the numerous local vineyards near Nelson, including Fossil Ridge and the sparkling at Seifried Estate (my favourite). In the afternoon, I made my way to the best Airbnb of the trip, on a farm run by a family, in a detached house with its own hot tub. Richard, Sue and Cass and their 2 Leonbergers, Chewy and Toffee, were so welcoming that they invited me to have the pizza they were cooking in their outdoor oven and sit with them over some wine. They call their Airbnb a Sanctuary for the Soul, and it truly felt that way—I was right at home. The location is a beautiful rural setting, with sheep and chickens, featuring farm fresh eggs daily. I honestly did not want to leave, and I can’t wait to go back next time I am in the country. I rung in the New Year’s with the locals at the Moutere Inn, New Zealand’s oldest pub, still housed in its original building from 1850. The countdown was off by a bit, but the music was good, and everyone had a great time.

My neighbours at the Airbnb in Motueka, South Island

Day 6: Abel Tasman National Park

I started off 2018 with a one-way hike along the Abel Tasman coast track, leaving Kaiteriteri at 9am and getting dropped off by the water taxi to Torrent Bay and picked up later that afternoon from Bark Bay (about an 8km walk). There are plenty of day walks available, or you can also opt to camp (and have your gear transported for you by the taxi company if desired). Hiking through Abel Tasman was one of the highlights of my trip, winding through a temperate rainforest with occasional stunning views over beaches and coastline, including a very fun and bouncy suspension bridge. It does get quite hot, and while the trail is relatively easy, it’s important to wear proper footwear (flip flops won’t do).

Day 7: West Coast of the South Island

After another breakfast of farm fresh eggs from the chickens next door to my studio, I left Motueka and headed south, stopping en route at Paparoa National Park to check out the unusual pancake rock formations. There’s a dizzying array of other places to visit along the way to Franz Jozef, including the Nile River glow worm experience, cave rafting, and the Hokitika Glowworm Dell. I sped along to make it to Lake Matheson in the late afternoon, going for a walk around the lake to admire the mirror-like reflection of Aoraki/Mount Cook and Mount Tasman mountains in its waters. The cafe off from the parking area served surprisingly good food. At night, I opted for the Minnehaha Glowworm Walk (free, self-guided) near Fox Glacier, which was absolutely spectacular. Wait for full darkness before starting the walk for the full experience.

Day 8: Franz Josef to Wanaka

I had booked a heli ice climbing tour of Franz Josef Glacier, but upon showing up at their offices in the morning, I learned my tour was cancelled due to the weather. This happens frequently, so if you’re really set on the experience, give yourself a few days in the area to be able to try a few days in a row. Be aware that the tours can book out far in advance in the high season. The tour also includes entry to the Glacier Hot Pools, which don’t open until later in the day, so rather than wait around, I opted to visit the West Coast Wildlife Centre, a great place to see the rare kiwi and other New Zealand birds, then made my way south, stopping en route for a short hike (90 min roundtrip) to Monro beach. In the winter and spring months, it’s possible to see Fiordland crested penguins on this beach. I wasn’t there at the right time of year, but even so, the walk was well worth it, and the beach is wild and beautiful. I also stopped en route at Wilkin River Jets for a fantastic and thrilling jet boat trip up the Wilkin and Makarora rivers, complete with 360 degree spins. Another great spot to stop for some photos is in between Lake Wanaka and Lake Hawea to admire the spectacular deep shades of blue in both lakes. I drove onward to Wanaka, arriving at my stunning Airbnb overlooking the lake in the late afternoon. My hosts’ red border collie, Sam, greeted me as I came in, and followed me down to the lake for a quick swim, where he insisted I throw him a ball that he would never quite bring back to me all the way to throw again. I located the famous Wanaka Tree and took the obligatory photos (it really is stunning in person), enjoyed a cocktail at the Gin and Raspberry bar, with its open air terrace full before sunset, and bought local, whimsically designed socks with messages like “Salad makes me sad” at Alice in Wanaka before wandering around the town in the evening.

Sam the border collie and I at my Airbnb in Wanaka

Day 9: Wanaka to Queenstown

I had initially planned to hike Roy’s Peak, one of the South Island’s better known attractions, but a wildfire the day before closed access to the hike. Instead, I allowed myself to be a bit lazy and visited a few wineries en route to Queenstown: Chard Farm, Amisfield and Akarua. New Zealand’s climate is particularly good for sauvignon blanc and pinot noir grapes, though being a sparkling wine aficionado, I sought out those wherever I could. The wineries in New Zealand generally felt very unpretentious, and many of the wines were quite good. The Queenstown trail walk is also most definitely worth a detour, with peaceful views over both city and lake and The Remarkables in the distance. In Queenstown, I eventually checked into my Airbnb, run by Philip, who welcomes people from around the world. His hot tub is a big draw and a great place to soak with views of the town and the lake. That evening in the living room, over a glass of local wine, I chatted with Sabine from France, who told me about some of the fascinating work she does with the Red Cross in Asia. One of the best things about travel is learning about the lives of people along the way and realising that in the end, we are not so different from each other regardless of the place.

Day 10: Milford Sound

I woke up early for the curvy and spectacular drive to Milford Sound, stopping en route at various waterfalls for some short hikes. I had been warned by my Airbnb host (and a number of others) that driving to Milford Sound was dangerous. They cited the recent example of two young German tourists who were incinerated after driving on the wrong side of the road and slamming into a Korean tour bus. While I can see that if you’re not paying attention to the road, things like that can happen, the drive was so beautiful and fun that I wouldn’t do it any other way. I was booked on a 4:15pm boat trip through Milford Sound (which is technically a fiord) out to the Tasman Sea and back—another of the many highlights of this trip. Dinner was local fare at Redcliff Cafe in Te Anau, which was so delicious I returned the following night, too. I stayed at an Airbnb in a rural area outside of Te Anau, featuring a very kind host who stocked my room daily with farm fresh eggs. One morning, while driving to Te Anau, I came across a local sheep herder using the road to move his sheep from one enclosure to another. I stopped the car and got out to take photos—it was fascinating watching the border collies at work, nudging the mindless sheep into submission.

Day 11: Milford Track

This was one of my favourite days of the trip, one that I’ve revisited in my thoughts time and time again back in New York. I caught the 10:30am ferry from Te Anau Downs to the start of the Milford Track, one of the most spectacular hiking paths in the country. The entire track runs 53.5km one way to Milford Sound (and must be done over 3 days); I hiked about 13km roundtrip, retracing my steps to take the ferry back in the afternoon. Don’t miss the ferry back, as there isn’t another way to get back to Te Anau Downs! Over several hours during peak season, I barely saw a total of 10 other people in what is one of the nicest hiking trails I’ve been on. The trail is wild and varied, passing through beech forest, the glacier-fed Clinton River, wetlands, and alpine terrain. I sat down at an overlook next to the river to enjoy 15 min of silence, and a small South Island robin came to investigate, coming right up next to me. The boat ride back was beautiful as well, with golden hour colours illuminating Lake Te Anau.

Start of the Milford Track, South Island

Day 12: Omarama gliding & hot tubs

The following morning, after a leisurely breakfast of farm fresh eggs and local cheese in the garden of my Airbnb overlooking rolling farmland hills, I began the drive towards Lake Pukaki. En route, I saw signs for the Sunday farmers market in Cromwell and stopped by, sampling local cheeses, honey, olive oil, and even cotton candy. I was particularly enamoured of the Ardgour olive oil, a rich green colour with strong notes of pepper, and purchased a travel size to take back with me, as well as some goat milk soap from simplenakedsoap for my Mom back home. There was live music, and the restored Gold rush-era historic part of town was lovely to walk around. That afternoon, I was booked at 3pm for a 60 minute glide with Glide Omarama, a both slightly terrifying and spectacular experience. I got into the narrow glider, in front of my instructor Gavin. The glider is attached via a cord to an airplane, which pulls the glider up to an appropriately fear-inducing height, at which point Gavin detached us, and we were under our own power—and that of the wind. For about an hour, we soared above the cliffs of the nearby mountains, with Lake Pukaki glinting in the distance. Upon request, we did some barrel rolls and sharp turns before lightly touching down. Afterwards, I checked out the Clay Cliffs and enjoyed the smoked salmon chowder at Shawty’s Cafe in Twizel, followed by a glass of wine on the terrace of my Airbnb as the sun set over the surrounding farmland. The area around Lake Pukaki is one of the few designated Reserves by the International Dark Sky Association, making for some spectacular stargazing. And while I didn’t make it, I was sorry to have missed the hot tub experience at Hot Tubs Omarama—they have great reviews. Will just have to go back!

Day 13: Hiking near Lake Pukaki

The area around Lake Pukaki and nearby Lake Tekapo is one of New Zealad’s most spectacular and varied, featuring great views of Mt Cook and the surrounding range. After a delicious breakfast feast of freshwater King Salmon sashimi and cold smoked salmon from Mount Cook Alpine Salmon overlooking the otherworldly blue waters of Lake Pukaki, I drove about 40 minutes to the trailhead for the Hooker Valley track (10 km return). I was initially concerned due to the large number of people both in the parking area and on the track, but the track itself along the Hooker River was beautiful, with multiple bouncing suspension bridges, purple bell-shaped mountain flowers, and a glacier lake with small icebergs (!) at the end. Afterwards, I relaxed in the multiple hot springs at Tekapo Springs, splurging to ride New Zealand’s tallest inflatable waterslide and bring out my inner 8 year old. Dinner was at Kohan, a surprisingly good Japanese restaurant overlooking Lake Tekapo. Next door is an outpost of Aotea gifts, where I sampled various types of manuka honey (one of New Zealand’s more expensive—and delicious and healthy—exports) and learned the differences from a very well-informed attendant.

Above, breakfast outside at Mt Cook Alpine Salmon with Lake Pukaki in the background. Below, Hooker Valley Track.

Day 14: Akaroa peninsula penguins

I had originally planned to relax and make my way through a few wineries en route to my Airbnb in Christchurch, but I learned about the Pohatu penguins in Akaroa and could not resist a detour. On a 2-hour nature tour around Flea Bay following a beautiful drive along Route 75, I met rescue penguins and a variety of other farm animals. Pohatu also offers overnight stays and kayaking trips, which I vowed to return for. And Akaroa is a very cute town, ideal for walking and lingering. It was the perfect ending to a full, spectacular and varied trip. One final thing: due to the time change between New Zealand and LA, it’s possible to take a photo at 8am on, say, January 10 in both Christchurch, NZ as well as Manhattan Beach, CA—highly recommended for the fun factor.

What to bring

Hiking gear
Bathing suit
Headlamp
Sunscreen
Sunglasses
Mosquito repellent
A very long playlist with good music for the many hours in the car
Allergy medicine - depending on where you stay, many Airbnbs have dogs, cats or other animals

Where to stay: Airbnb all the way!

Where to eat & drink

Devon on the Wharf, Auckland (North Island)

Shucker Brothers, Auckland (North Island)

Soul Bar + Bistro, Auckland (North Island)

The Merchant of Lake Taupo, Lake Taupo (North Island)

Shed5, Wellington (North Island)

Crab Shack, Wellington (North Island)

Noble Rot wine bar, Wellington (North Island)

Cable Bay Cafe, Cable Bay (South Island)

Moutere Inn, Upper Moutere (South Island)

Matheson Cafe, Lake Matheson (South Island)

Gin and Raspberry bar, Wanaka (South Island)

Chard Farm, near Queenstown (South Island)

Akarua winery, near Queenstown (South Island)

Amisfield, near Queenstown (South Island)

Redcliff Cafe, Te Anau (South Island)

Shawty’s Cafe, Twizel (South Island)

Kohan, Lake Tekapo (South Island)

Belize (and a bit of Guatemala)

September 12, 2018

I’d been planning a trip to Belize for years, so it was with great excitement that a close friend of mine and I found relatively inexpensive tickets over Thanksgiving 2017. Unfortunately, there are no direct flights from NYC, so we flew via Toronto on the way there with WestJet and Miami with American on the return, with about 10 days on the ground. This was my first time flying WestJet and I was impressed with the ahead-of-time departure and incredibly nice disposition of the airline staff, both at the gate and on the plane.

I subscribe to Scott’s Cheap Flights (just the regular, unpaid, subscription, though I imagine the paid one also provides lots of value) as well as The Points Guy (especially good for credit card signup points and other alerts). For this trip, I didn’t use either, opting to set price drop alerts in Google Flights. Once the price dropped to about $600, we purchased our tickets (a reasonable price for that time of year when booking less than a month in advance).

This map may be useful to anyone planning a trip to Belize - there’s nice detail on it.

We arrived in Belize City in the early afternoon and made our way to the domestic check-in for a charter flight we booked with Tropic Air that would take us around the Great Blue Hole and then to San Pedro. One thing to note: there is a duty free store before you exit International Arrivals. Staff told me prices were in Belizean Dollars (exchange rate of 2 BZD=1 USD), so we bought some wine here. However, I later saw on my credit card statement that I’d been charged in USD at the displayed prices - so everything was twice as expensive as it should have been. Avoid.

We booked our charter flight with Tropic Air for 1755 BZD total (including taxes). Note that we also tried contacting Maya Air, another local airline, for a quote, but despite several emails, they never got back to us. Once on the domestic side, everything went smoothly, and we were told to check in with Tropic Air at our departure gate. The agent working there said he’d come find us in the terminal once our small Cessna airplane was ready. The terminal features a bar, a few small places for a quick bite, and some souvenir shops - best to purchase food before arriving at the airport if you plan to spend any amount of time there. Unfortunately no lounges/Priority Pass here (hopefully you’ve all got your Chase Sapphire Reserve card, which offers free Priority Pass access as one of its many benefits).

Our airplane was ready for us at the requested time, and after some brief introductions with our friendly pilot, we were off! It was about a 30 minute flight out to the Great Blue Hole, and it was worth every penny we’d spent on the charter flight. Our pilot circled around the hole multiple times, from high above and closer to the ground, and he also swooped by a nearby shipwreck that juts out of the water. We had plenty of photo opportunities and highly recommend the experience. From there, it was another 20 minutes or so to reach San Pedro, where we were met by someone from our guest house, Casa del Rai. Located just north of town and within walking distance, it was a nice place to stay for our four nights on the island, and it has a rooftop pool to boot.

One of the main reasons we had decided on Belize was for the scuba diving, and Belize did not disappoint. My travel companion got PADI Open Water certified with the Belize Pro Dive Center (you can read my Tripadvisor review here), which went very well. Their representative Emeliano was very responsive over email, which we really appreciated. I was previously PADI Rescue Diver certified, and while my friend was doing her certification dives, the dive shop helped connect me to a boat going out on the full-day Blue Hole diving trip (featuring 3 dives and a visit to Half Moon Caye to hang at the beach as well as see the red footed boobies). The people on the boat were very friendly and I quickly made friends, which made the day much more enjoyable. If you are Advanced Open Water certified and have done at least 25 dives, this is a day not to be missed. Note: you should not be considering doing this dive if you are newly Open Water certified. Get some more experience, get comfortable at different depths, learn to descend quickly, and then sign up.

For my friend’s final certification dives, we requested to go to Hol Chan and Shark Ray Alley so that I could join her for the afternoon. The diving conditions at Hol Chan were excellent - a large quantity of fish, and the reefs were in very good shape. We also really enjoyed swimming with the nurse sharks and sting rays in Shark Ray Alley (though I do oppose the practice of constantly feeding them - this should really be stopped).

Our golf cart and the flooded road north

The food on San Pedro surpassed our expectations. Of particular note was El Fogon, to which we went twice because of how great their fish coconut curry was. Also be sure to try the chilmole soup. Elvi’s Kitchen was also pretty good. We loved the Belize Chocolate company - not only do they serve delicious, rich chocolate drinks made with Belizean dark chocolate, they also have great chocolate kitchen and bath products. Not to be missed is the chocolate mint body scrub. The Palapa bar & grill is a nice spot over the water for a drink. Further afield, for which you’ll need to rent a golf cart, the Rojo lounge is a great spot to chill and have drinks right on the water. Just past it is the wonderful and upscale Matachica Resort. We just stopped for lunch, but we really didn’t want to leave. When we rent, the road north became impassable about a 20 min drive after Matachica - it was completely flooded, and we didn’t want to risk getting the golf cart stuck (every rental place will let you know that soon after you leave town, the roads become unpaved, and if you get stuck or run out of gas, a rescue will be quite costly). Note: do not rent from Road Runner rentals. We prepaid and confirmed our one-day booking the night before, but the cart never showed up. We ended up needing to rent elsewhere last-minute and had to submit a claim with my credit card company to get our money back, as they completely stopped responding to us (read my Tripadvisor review here).

On the way back into town, we enjoyed a nice sunset from Rain Rooftop Terrace.

After spending 4 nights on San Pedro, we took a ferry to Caye Caulker (roughly 30 minutes) for another 2 nights. We walked over to Seaside Cabanas (5 min from the ferry) to check in, only to be told our room was not yet ready (though it was after check-in time). We were also told that because the previous guest had had their hotel key stolen, there was just one key that we needed to make sure not to lose. Needless to say, especially as two female travelers, this did not make us feel safe. The ambiance in the hotel was a bit off-putting, and I would not stay there again.

We did a day trip dive with Belize Diving Services to Turneffe Atoll. While the dive shop was professional, the trip was relatively expensive, and the reef was simply in poor condition. The visibility was also bad due to some windy weather in the previous days. We had a better time hanging out at Koko King for a sunset, watersports, swings and drinks. They regularly do free pick-ups and drop-offs from the west side of Caye Caulker. Another enjoyable and free activity was the sunset yoga with RandOM yoga (they also do morning yoga for those so inclined). We also checking out the animal shelter on the island, which is an ad-hoc operation, but can be fun to swing by if you’re missing your furry companion back home.

Foodwise, one afternoon we walked by La Cubana and noticed a whole roasting pig - it was fresh and delicious, and the skin was crackling. As Caye Caulker is very much an expat island, there was no shortage of restaurants doing Thanksgiving specials. We enjoyed meeting the very friendly and kind owner of Wish Willy whilst spending our Thanksgiving there feasting on turkey and homemade cake.

As far as the never-ending Ambergris Caye vs Caye Caulker debate goes, we were glad to have seen both and felt that our split of 4 nights on Ambergris and 2 nights on Caye Caulker was a good one for us. Ambergris Caye is bigger, and there’s more to do from there. We also thought the diving closer to Ambergris was better. Caye Caulker is cute, but ultimately very small and felt a bit sleepy.

For the inland leg of our trip, we took the water taxi from Caye Caulker to Belize City (45-60 min) and arranged for a driver to meet us via Mayan Heart Shuttle from the water taxi terminal in Belize City. We stopped for a quick photo opp at the Belize sign near the terminal, then made our way to cave tube at the Nohoch Che’en Caves (roughly $30 USD per person), stopping for a quick food stall lunch in Belmopan, and ending the day in Tikal in Guatemala ($125/person, including transfer on the Guatemalan side to Tikal with their sister company). In Tikal we stayed at the Jungle Lodge ($54/night total for a room with 2 beds and shared bathroom). We booked a sunrise tour through the lodge, which was one of the highlights of the trip, and one of the most memorable sunrises I have ever seen. Our guide had grown up in the area but also spent time in the U.S. and was not only incredibly knowledgeable, but also funny and entertaining. Your guide will lead you to Templo IV, which you climb in silence (guides along the way will shush you if you try to disturb the peace) and wait at the top as the sunrise creeps into view. You’ll hear the cries of howler monkeys from around the site, and the colours changing behind the other distant temples (Tikal is a very large site) are unforgettable.

Later that afternoon, we arranged for Mayan Heart Shuttle to transport us back to San Ignacio ($45/person), where we checked into our splurge hotel for the trip: the San Ignacio Resort Hotel (roughly $200/night). San Ignacio is a sleepy town, but it’s the jumping off point for visiting the ATM caves. You’ll need to book a tour to do this (and it’s a must-do); we booked ours with Pacz tours, who picked us up at our hotel in the morning, dropping us off again around 5pm ($95 USD/person). The ATM cave tour is quite an experience - prepare to be completely soaked (you will be swimming multiple times in full clothing). The only dry spot you’ll have is underneath your helmet, at the top of your head. I wore water shoes, which I would highly recommend. You will also squeeze through a couple of small places, and the tour will move slowly, since there are a number of other tour groups in there at any time. Note that due to tourists dropping cell phones and stepping atop precious Mayan artifacts, there are now many rules around what you can bring into the cave. For one, no water is allowed inside the cave, and you must bring socks in order to be able to walk around the deep part of the cave, even if you aren’t wearing them the rest of the time. Despite all the rules, the cave was one of the highlights of our trip.

To relax post-cave, for our final night, we booked 90-minute chocolate massages through our hotel, which were worth every penny. The next morning, we were picked up by Ronald Ron’s Belize shuttle (run by an expat Dutchman, $45/person, cash only) and dropped off at the Belize airport (after a quick and worthwhile detour at Belize Rum Cakes to pick up some of their namesake product). Overall, we really enjoyed our time in Belize, and I would go back in a heartbeat. We didn’t get to explore the diving and area around Glover’s Atoll, which I hope to do next. Belize is definitely a country worth going back to! (As is Guatemala!)

What to bring