A few hours away from NYC, a train and ferry ride away, lies the hiply cute Block Island. With its Victorian houses and large expanses of green sloping into sand dunes and stretches of beach, Block Island feels somewhat like a hideaway for New England’s elite. But its serene exterior belies its down to earth, casual vibe that makes it so easy to love.
Frederick Benson Town beach, Block Island
Several ferry routes service Block Island: New London, CT (easiest for those coming from NYC), Montauk, NY, Fall River, MA, Newport, RI and Point Judith, RI (easiest for those coming from Boston). You can also fly in from Westerly, RI on New England Airlines. Amtrak runs frequent train service to New London, CT, from which the ferry is a 5 min walk. Otherwise, you can take a train to the nearest Amtrak and request an Uber or Lyft to the ferry or airport.
The beach in front of Avonlea by the Sea
The beach in front of Avonlea by the Sea
Book a B&B or hotel within walking distance of New Shoreham, Block Island’s main port town, so that you have no need for a car or taxi upon arrival. Instead, rent a bike from Aldo’s Bikes & Mopeds or Island Moped & Bike. At just six miles between its northernmost and southernmost tips, Block Island is the perfect place to leave your car behind and bike, rollerblade or walk. We stayed at the charming Avonlea by the Sea, which includes a home-cooked breakfast by the resident Sabrina, as well as wine and snacks every afternoon, including Block Island barnacle cookies. After settling in, we headed to Ballard’s for drinks directly on the beach. The food is skippable—for better food options, take a short stroll to the The 1661 Inn (which also features a curious animal farm that you can visit) or the Spring House Hotel (both also higher end options to stay at night). Seafood is the local specialty on the island, with oysters, shrimp and haddock typically a good bet. Afterwards, we danced to the live band playing covers at Captain Nick’s, perhaps the liveliest watering hole on the island. Next door is also the reliable Poor People’s Pub with plenty of outdoor seating.
By day, we followed Spring St. down to the South East lighthouse, built in 1874 and moved to its current location in 1993 due to erosion. Designated a U.S. National Historic Landmark, it’s a quick stop en route to the striking Mohegan Bluffs, set below several staircases from the main road. From here, we continued along the Mohegan Trail, which curves northward towards the airport. Should you arrive or depart by plane, the lively Bethany’s Airport Diner is a great spot to linger over a drink as you watch small planes take off.
Mohegan Bluffs
Further north lies Legion Park, where we sampled delicious fresh unsweetened lemonade and snacks from local vendors at the weekly Saturday’s farmers market. Dead Eye Dick’s was perfect for a sunny lunch outside: the local oysters and bloody mary were a great combination, and they serve two delicious varieties of clam chowder. Should you desire a nap on the beach after lunch, nearby crescent-shaped Frederick Benson Town Beach is the place to be. For fewer crowds, we rode further up to Mansion Beach, bordered by untamed sand dunes and tidal pools. Bring your own drinks and snacks, as there are no facilities.
Mansion beach
The Block Island North Lighthouse, accessible via a pebbly beach path, marks the northernmost point of the island. The winds here are stronger, so be sure to keep energy in reserve for the ride back to New Shoreham. For those who are meditation minded, the Sacred Labyrinth is a serene stop en route—it was completely empty when we stopped by.
The Sacred Labyrinth
Sunset, Block Island
Should you have time for hiking, Rodman’s Hollow or the Hodge Family Wildlife Preserve offer a number of options. Bring mosquito repellent, as the trails can get buggy. Afterwards, treat yourself to a dinner overlooking the town beach at the lively Beachead: we enjoyed the tuna poke, fish and chips, and the baked haddock as we listened to the waves crashing across the road. Sunset colours lit up the sky and reflected back onto the wet sand as we agreed we’d be back. Soon.
Where to stay
Where to eat & drink
Ballard’s for drinks
Captain Nick’s for live music & dancing