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Mexico

In the land of stones, spices and spirits

In a recent op-ed in the New York Times, Martin Scorsese writes that cinema is “about revelation—aesthetic, emotional and spiritual revelation,” and the best films are the ones that take risks to engage, excite and thrill the audience. I was reminded of his words over lunch last week at Pitiona restaurant in Oaxaca, Mexico, where I ate perhaps my favourite meal of the year. The menu features a wide range of dishes, and I wanted to try every single one. Chef José Manuel Baños combines local ingredients such as tasajo (a cut of beef), grasshopper and amaranth with a flair for unusual, unique combinations that delight the palate. Over a spectacular meal of passionfruit ceviche, guacamole with crickets and tasajo, chickpea mushroom soup, arroz milpa with duck chicharron, and snapper with leek foam, I reflected that Scorsese’s words can be aptly used to describe the culinary arts as well. What more could you want? A spectacular view overlooking the baroque, green-hued Santo Domingo church. Yes, there is that, too.

Passionfruit ceviche masterpiece at Pitiona restaurant

Passionfruit ceviche masterpiece at Pitiona restaurant

Pitiona restaurant, Oaxaca

Pitiona restaurant, Oaxaca

Street scene in Oaxaca

Street scene in Oaxaca

Hot chocolate at Mayordomo

Hot chocolate at Mayordomo

We ate another memorable meal at Alfonsina (cash only, reservations required), on the outskirts of Oaxaca city, located by a courtyard the owner-chef shares with his neighbours. Five courses (including a dessert course) are served at a communal table. Among the dishes we were treated to were a flavourful corvina ceviche in a sesame-based sauce, and, later, the same fish cooked in a spicy mole sauce. We walked off lunch around the Zócalo, Oaxaca’s main square, over which the Cathedral prominently soars, and checked out local arts and crafts in the nearby markets. The Zócalo is also a great spot for people watching while sipping on a local hot chocolate at Mayordomo (get the one with no added sugar with milk as a base), which you can also bring home with you. 

Mitla

Mitla

Stonework details at Mitla

Stonework details at Mitla

Monte Albán

Monte Albán

Textile museum in Oaxaca

Textile museum in Oaxaca

When not eating, Oaxaca’s vibrant culture and history will easily fill up several days, if not weeks. Don’t miss the aforementioned Santo Domingo church, and the Textile Museum was well worth a stop. Skippable is the small botanical garden, which forces you on a painfully slow, two-hour tour to view the resident plants. We particularly enjoyed contrasting the neighbouring Zapotec sites of Mitla and Monte Albán. The former is small, easily seen in the span of an hour, and features intricate stonework that does not use any mortar. It is impressive how well-preserved many of the structures are. Monte Albán, on the other hand, is a sprawling site, less focused on the details of the stonework and more so on the layout and community that once thrived there. Wandering among the temples, some dating as far back as 2,500 years ago, you sense how small our presence is in the wider span of history. What will human civilisation be like 2,500 years hence? We pondered this and other questions over drinks at Selva, a newly opened mezcal-focused cocktail bar, back in the city. The vibe is jungle chic, the staff are incredibly friendly, and the drinks were so flavourful that one quickly turned into three. 

Hierve el Agua

Hierve el Agua

Hierve el Agua pools

Hierve el Agua pools

Another pool at Hierve el Agua

Another pool at Hierve el Agua

One of the most stunning sites in the area is made by nature rather than humans: Hierve el Agua, a set of calcified waterfalls and small, vibrantly coloured pools in various hues of green, yellow and blue. The formations are deposits of calcium carbonate and other minerals that remain from previous waterfalls, a similar process to the creation of stalactites in caves. We arrived when the site opened and were lucky enough to have it largely to ourselves for about 45 minutes, during which we staged a photoshoot of Instagram-worthy calibre. Best of all, you can take a dip in the pools, refreshing when outdoor temperatures climb quickly with the exposed sun. Should you want to stay in the area (it’s about a 2 hour drive back to Oaxaca), I highly recommend our Airbnb in Mitla (walking distance to the ruins). It’s run by a young family and features a large pool and patio, a cactus garden, a vinyl record player (and records), striking sunsets, and spectacular stargazing, at roughly $60 USD/night. Our only regret was not staying longer.

Our Airbnb in Mitla

Our Airbnb in Mitla

Playa Zipolite

Playa Zipolite

For those that have more time, I’d recommend renting a car to travel further afield. We enjoyed the curvy mountain road between Oaxaca and Puerto Ángel, which climbs and climbs through the mountains, giving you stunning views over the surrounding range. We also passed through the town of San José del Pacifico, known among tourists for its temazcal rituals (basically a mud sweat lodge) featuring locally picked magic mushrooms (the season runs from June to September). Once you hit the coast, you’ll be rewarded with long stretches of beach featuring nudists (at Playa Zipolite) or surfers (at Mazunte or Puerto Escondido). I’d recommend lingering (one-way car rentals are offered by Puerto-Escondido based U-car) to sink into the slower pace of life here. We had a fantastic dinner at the Italian-run Bacco, featuring homemade pastas and fresh, locally-sourced toppings for pizzas, fish and meats. At night, should you visit around the time of a full moon, which we luckily did, you’ll see bioluminescence in the ocean as you watch the waves crash on the beach. It’s the perfect end—or beginning—to a spiritual and cultural journey through this most fascinating of Mexican states.

One of hundreds of striking courtyards in Oaxaca

One of hundreds of striking courtyards in Oaxaca

Where to eat & drink

Pitiona, Oaxaca

Alfonsina, Oaxaca outskirts

Mayordomo, Oaxaca

Selva, Oaxaca

Bacco, Playa Zipolite

Where to stay

Airbnb in Mitla

Top 7 Beaches in the World

As an avid beach goer, I’m often asked to name some of my favourite beaches around the world. What defines these places is not just physical beauty, but also a deeper connection to the surrounding place and environment. And it doesn’t hurt if it’s remote, either.

7. Balos Bay, Crete, Greece

I first visited this beach back in 2002 on a family vacation. At the time, the only way to reach it (unless you were lucky enough to have a private boat) was by car along a very rocky, difficult to navigate road. When the road ended, you could hike down, the beauty of the giant rock and thin strip of pink sand connecting it to the mainland coming into view. Most striking of all, in the distance the darkened remains of a shipwreck marked the otherwise blue-green water. And best of all—we were alone.

When I went back just three years later, there were tourist boats taking daytrippers to the beach, complete with beach chairs and umbrellas. Still very much worth visiting, but you’ll have to time your visit right.

Balos Bay, Crete, Greece

Balos Bay, Crete, Greece

6. Aitutaki, Cook Islands

The array of colours and sharp contrasts between the blues and greens was among the most beautiful I’ve ever seen in nature at Aiutatki lagoon. It’s a relatively remote atoll, but worth every penny to get to. I was lucky enough to visit while on board the National Geographic Orion from Rarotonga via Kiribati to French Polynesia. We visited one of the islands in the lagoon, featuring the kinds of palm trees typically seen on postcards. The shallow water surrounding the island made for stunning photographs, and fish and dolphins were plentiful.

Aiututaki, Cook Islands. Photo credit: Jay Dickman

Aiututaki, Cook Islands. Photo credit: Jay Dickman

5. Abel Tasman, New Zealand

Abel Tasman is a rewarding hike through a spectacular stretch of nature in what is already one of the world’s most beautiful countries. You can opt to have Abel Tasman water taxi services drop you off and pick you up elsewhere the same day as you hike through and stop at waterfalls, beaches and suspension bridges en route, or you can also do a similar trip camping with overnight stops. Sea kayaking is also available, and there’s a beach for everyone—truly an adventurer’s paradise. This stretch of coast is a must-visit for anyone planning a trip to New Zealand.

Abel Tasman, New Zealand

Abel Tasman, New Zealand

4. Tulum, Mexico

A long stretch of white sand beach and crashing waves dotted with small boutique hotels (my personal favourite is Sueños) featuring hammocks and bean bags, Tulum is the ultimate relaxation getaway. But should you tire of drinking spicy mezcal cocktails and stuffing yourself with tacos or tortilla soups on the beach, there are plenty of activities to keep you occupied. Several kitesurfing schools line the beach, and stand up paddleboarding is also available. A short drive away are cenotes, or underground freshwater caverns with openings through which sunlight and snorkelers stream in. Scuba diving is also available (and highly recommended). One such dive, studded with the effects of halocline and stalactites, convinced me to start my cave diving certification with Bil Phillips of Speleotech, a highly experienced cave explorer and instructor.

Tulum, Mexico

Tulum, Mexico

3. Praia do Leão, Fernando de Noronha, Brazil

This beach is often overlooked in favour of the neighbouring Baia do Sancho, which garners all the accolades. Praia do Leão is its wilder cousin, reachable either by walking from the nearby Praia do Sueste (also worth a visit to spot baby lemon sharks in the shallows or for a swim and snorkel), or hitching a ride. It’s not suitable for swimming, and there are no concessions, so bring plenty of water. Have a seat on the sand, watch the waves pound away at the surf, and contemplate writing your own version of Baudelaire’s Man and the Sea.

Praia do Leão, Fernando de Noronha, Brasil

Praia do Leão, Fernando de Noronha, Brasil

2. Anakena, Easter Island

Easter Island is a special place, and this beach is no exception. Seven moai statues overlook the pink sand and natural harbor with turquoise water. There are a fair number of people, but the beach is large enough that is doesn’t feel crowded. There are several nice vantage points nearby, and it’s an easy place to while away an afternoon reading, swimming and enjoying the views. And of course to wonder, who was this ancient civilisation who built the moai, how, and why? And other questions that we may never have answers to.

Anakena beach, Easter Island

Anakena beach, Easter Island

1. Aldabra, Seychelles

Aldabra is as remote as it gets, uninhabited save for a small environmental research station, and reachable only by boat. It is the second-largest coral atoll in the world, and the only place besides the Galápagos where the giant tortoise roams—a mystery to this day. The tortoises have plenty of company, with large coconut crabs in various hues of purple, orange and yellow hiding in the trees, and some of the best scuba diving in the world just beyond the lagoon. Small black-tip reef sharks like hanging in the shallows of the white sand beaches and may curiously check you out. You’ll be some of the only humans for miles in this remote part of the Seychelles. Need I continue?

The Seychelles

The Seychelles

A giant tortoise on Aldabra in the Seychelles

A giant tortoise on Aldabra in the Seychelles